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Originally Posted By: ET16 Originally Posted By: dlundblad Is the dipstick anything like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MylmvfQ4pA Very similar. But I can't get my hand down to it from above. It is a PITA, but you can reach the dipstick from underneath. Also, you are supposed to...

2006 Saab 9-3 - 74k miles on vehicle. 6,100 mile OCI, 1 year of service. Out: Castrol Edge 0w40, Wix 57082 cartridge filter Made in China. Filter looked great with no ecotec "crushing". In: Castrol Edge 0w40 Made in Germany, Mobil 1 M1C151 filter Made in USA.

It worked, thank you!

Originally Posted By: Pontual 22ppm of magnesium and 3kppm of calcium? Is this really Mobil 1? Yes, it was M1 0w40. Those numbers look right on par with the latest M1 0w40 VOA I can find. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3001485/1

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim I suppose Nickel could be from the work you performed, but if that's the case it hopefully would go quiet after the next OCI. Great results I'd say! Also, considering the UAs show Nickel at 0 it's very likely going to go away. Anecdotal. How long was this...

Fixed, sorry about that.

This engine had a balance chain guide and tensioner replaced during the OCI. Do you guys suppose the nickel is from the new tensioner? Timing cover gasket and crank seal were also replaced. The engine is spotless inside, fwiw. The guide snapping in two is common with these cars, so I did this as...

1996 Saab 900 SE Turbo Out: M1 10w40 HM, Bosch 3422 filter. In: Rotella T6 5w40 + a full bottle of Auto Rx from 8 years ago, MC FL 400s filter.

Originally Posted By: sicko Originally Posted By: simple_gifts Or it is just certain additives discoloring. This. Some additives will discolor or turn opaque when exposed to heat, which is why some oils will turn dark very quickly. No reason to find it unusual. Exactly. M1 0W40 turns dark...

Make sure the PCV update kit has been installed.

Originally Posted By: Oro_O Originally Posted By: J_R

Originally Posted By: Oro_O Originally Posted By: Gannet167 Maxlife is "T-IV", so is Castrol Syn, PetroCan DuraDrive, so.... All of these would be valid options and not necessarily any less suitable than Mobil Super 3009. Correct. Fail. Maxlife is NOT Type-IV. Sheesh.

Originally Posted By: Gannet167 Maybe I'm coming at this wrong, my owner's manual actually says "Genuine Toyota Type T-IV" it doesn't say "3309" anywhere. If I interpret this, maybe they're the same spec? Maxlife is "T-IV", so is Castrol Syn, PetroCan DuraDrive, so.... All of these would be...

When in doubt just use 3309. It is cheap and ubiquitous. Having said that, I have Maxlife and Lubegard red in my trans that specs 3309.

Thanks, I know about 3309, where to get it cheap, etc. I was just wondering about the validity of that quoted statement in the first post.

Originally Posted By: JHZR2 I think there are plenty of discussions on here about viscosity and friction characteristics effecting clutch packs, synchros and all sorts of other things in both MT and ATs. Id heed their advice. I'm sure this exact thing has been gone over here, but I couldn't...

This is from the WIS (workshop information system) on the fluid(3309) for the 5-speed AW55: "the friction coefficient of synthetic oil is not the same as that of mineral oil based fluid and must therefore not be used. Synthetic oil may cause malfunctions by means of abnormal wear" This note is...

Originally Posted By: antiqueshell Good, except why add the lubeguard if the transmission works perfectly? If it ain't broke, don't take chances. Stay away from snake oils. I don't believe Lubegard to be a snake oil. JMO

Originally Posted By: Kira Hello, I've enjoyed this thread. I posted my personal involvement on p.2 12th post down. I appreciated the energy, verve and logic displayed herein. Here are some basic numbers I have to deal with NOW. I have 4 cars' oil to change and would like to do 3 transmission...