Search results

I've got great results with Maxlife on my Mazda. Their recommended MV fluid is very similar to Mercon V. Biggest improvement was the slight "shock" happening between some shifts at 14 degrees.

0w20 up north is really nice to start the engine during the winter. With it, you don't even need a block heater!

I doubt oil grade is going to change anything to prevent the rod bearing problems. If the passage is clogged, bearing will fail eventually. The noise test done by the dealer should have detected it already anyway. I check the PCV and do a GDI cleaning every year. I use 0w20 full synthetic every...

As fuel consumption is the same, I would go with the 2.5: probably more torque at low RPM and no eventual turbo failure.

Manuals are getting rare now that automatics are more fuel efficient. We like smaller cars, but the most popular vehicle in the province is still the F-150...

They're available in Canada and quite popular.

Bought two at the beginning of summer for a Kia Optima and Mazda 3. Both seemed very good to me: silicone valve, not lightweight, pre-lubricated gasket and a plastic seal. With better marketing they could probably sell them at twice the price.

5w30 is probably to reduce oil consumption and reduce the number of engines they have to replace under warranty. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10206642-0001.pdf

60%, I almost had a heart attack.

“The main reason OEs are going with direct injection is because of what I would consider to be unrealistic MPG requirements by the government,” He’s seriously blaming the government for GDI issues. These things can't be made up.

After lot of research, I finally put Castrol Import Multi Vehicle in my Mazda 3, same transmission. It runs like butter and hard shift during winter are gone now.

I have a 2012 and don't have any rust problem. Only things changed so far are the brakes, a battery, belts and pretensioner. I also cleaned the intake, idle was rough.

It looks exactly like a Civic from afar.

I tried, but they're too far off. The car wasn't running very well and after 3 tries, I just replaced them.

With the phasing out of petroleum powered personal vehicles, the future is bleak for this industry as we're still waiting for an electrical truck able to move these things. This business isn't making sense anyway: people a paying huge sum of money for a truck/rv, burns hundreds of litres of...

Once a year is probably fine. That’s what I’m doing with my Optima. Short trips, winter driving and less than 6000 miles a year. Down south, I’m sure you won’t have problem.

Don't overthink that too much. With soot, oil dilution, turbo and direct injection, you can't keep the oil for long. Buy the cheapest dexos2/GF-6 you can find with a good filter. 0w30 is fine for any temperature, but 5w30 is probably cheaper.

C'est franchement rare de lire quoi que ce soit en français ici! Votre huile doit être conforme aux standards BMW Longlife-01 ou Longlife-14, alors quoi que ce soit qui répond à ces normes devrait être suffisant. C'est beaucoup plus strict que les normes des véhicules en Amérique du Nord...

Even with stringer European emission laws and a market with a lot of small engines, there's not a single bottle of 5w20.

Longer OCI will solve your problem or just buy a DI car.