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Get an oil pan heater. Keep your oil at operating temps.. it'd be better start than in warm weather! Various companies make them.. easy to install, just sticky them onto your oil pan.

6.5L turbo diesel from 94 up in GMC trucks and some hummers. I had to replace the injector pump on that thing about 3 times in 50000kms.. at $1400 a pop.. fortunately they extended the warranty so I didn't have to actually pay for it. It died out of warranty and I put an older mechanical one on it.

Gasoline engines vary in thermal efficiency depending on load. At light loads (eg cruising conditions) they are REALLY BAD! Typically 5-10% thermal efficiency when outputing 20hp. At full throttle with lowish RPMs, eg 2500 or so they reach 25% efficiency. Diesels fair a little better on the...

I have been reading a lot about this lately as I just rebuilt a 77 ford inline 6 engine. While this is no muscle car engine it is of the same era.. I haven't even started it for the first time yet and I've been researching what oil to use in it. Very interesting stuff here . Anyway I came...

You guys need to stop bickering! I was very interested in this thread as I just built a slightly hopped up ford 77 I6. Haven't fired it up yet and I'm still trying to figure out what oil to put in it. So, keep up the good discussion!

That's a silly argument IMO. The leaking can occur any time. If you're doing 5k OCI with a UOA half way through, how is that any different than a 2.5k OCI? You could just change your oil and then it starts leaking.. same thing as having it start just after the UOA.

yeah, 0w30 is $4.64 a l. A 20l pail is $107.13.

You know what, I didn't specify grade, so that's probably the 15w40 which seems to be the most popular. I probly jumped the gun there.. I'll call back tomorrow and see what grades they have and for what price. Sorry.

I just called about it.. xd3 is on sale right now for $2.72 a l at the local esso bulk.

Been reading up on the xd3 oils. Sounds pretty good, and they're HDEOs.. seem to have some extra EP additives? Probably good for my flat tappets? Maybe the 10-30 for break in? Engine won't be going in for a few weeks but she's all together now and ready to go!

Oh, I was also meaning to ask about break in oil. I read someplace that they recommend shell rotela T 15-40 for cam breakin because of the zinc etc. Thoughts there?

It still has the flat tappet cam, but with a higher lift. Never heard of any of those additives, I'll do some searching. So you guys really think I should run a thicker oil? I thought that would be bad on startup?

OK. Thanks. Surprised so few people have said anything . I'm thinking now that ya.. 10-30 and 5-30 would be best. I'll probably go synthetic after a few oil changes. Mostly I just want it to last a long time and be clean inside.

why would no pcv cause the oil to degrade faster? I'm not seeing the logic there..

So I just finished rebuilding a 77 ford 300. It's running 10.5:1 on propane. This is my first post.. I've done a fair bit of reading here but I'm still a bit of a newb. Anyway, I have to do the break in and figure out what oil regiment I'm going to use. I was thinking of breaking it in using...