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Originally Posted By: moribundman I have little interest in the light output of the LED that Pete used. The brightness of the angel eyes has no significant meaning. I simply wanted to know what the Wattage of the LED that Pete used was, because I wanted to know the difference in power usage...

Originally Posted By: moribundman How many Watt does that LED have? Wouldn't the more important question be: "How many lumens does the LED produce?"? Watts are a measure of power/energy used, and we all know LEDs are more energy efficient than standard (incandescent) car bulbs. OTOH lumens...

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie Brake lights are incandecent. I'd switch over if I knew of a good 360 degree unit. It really depends upon what "bulb"/socket it has for the brake light. However, if your "brake light" is a small (single intensity) wedge bulb (168, 194, etc), than the the...

Originally Posted By: UG_Passat On my old car, when I got a new europeam spec bumper, I wired my fender turn signals to be the side markers also. What I found to work was superbrightleds.com WLED-x6, which didn't have polarity. Good to know! That not only gives a module style that is...

Originally Posted By: vweosdriver If you aren't using an amber 194 change to a 168 which is about 50% brighter. But even though they come with the same base, that extra light will come at the cost of slightly more power/watts and slightly more heat (as a result of the slightly higher watts)...

Originally Posted By: Kestas My light-out system is a dash warning light. Yuck. I don't suppose it's easy to get to the dash light, and simply remove that small bulb (effectively turning off that "feature")? Probably not, but it might be worth looking into just to see if that is a...

Originally Posted By: Kestas LEDs won't work becsuse they have a different resistance value. They'll trigger the "light-out" feature in my car. Is this just the "fast flash" problem (where the signals flash fast to indicate that a bulb is burned out), or some other light-out "feature"? If...

Originally Posted By: Pesca As for the Rogue, I received the red LEDs last friday, put them in the car, what a difference. It is like night and day. So I am returning all the expensive white ones (shipping and restocking fee don't really work for the cheap ones), and will order some more red...

Originally Posted By: Hootbro With 194 socketed LED's, just flip 180 degrees in the socket to get the correct polarity if they do not work the first time installed. Obviously you haven't been reading the posts very carefully. The issue the OP (Onmo'Eegusee) has been bringing up, is that his...

Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee During the day + comes from the turn signal circuit and the bulb grounds through the parking lamp circuit, so they flash with the turn signal. At night they light by the parking circuit and ground through the turn signal circuit, when the turn signal lights it...

Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee but I realized while I was looking at LEDs they are polarity sensitive. In order for them to work as I have them set up, they cannot be polarity sensitive. Anybody have any suggestions? LEDs themselves (by their vary nature) are polarity sensitive. However...

Originally Posted By: MolaKule Equalizers are needed for LED retrofits: I followed that link, only to discover that what you call an "Equalizer" looks like little more than a load resister in a fancier package. And fancy package or no, there are MANY CASES when you do NOT need extra load to be...

Originally Posted By: toocrazy2yoo In new cars (probably old, too), without a change out to relays and a harness, there's no good option in higher-wattage bulbs. True. However, if you are lucky enough to have a car that uses 9005/9006 bulbs for the headlights, you can (with very slight mods to...

Originally Posted By: hate2work Draco, how did you determine that you got a slight increase in fuel economy just by changing to LED? That sounds doubtful at best to me. I first ran a number of tests to determine that electrical load did have a noticeable effect on my FE. In fact, not only did...

Originally Posted By: Pesca Since I changed the brake lights to LEDs, I have the following on both cars: - Headlights off, when I brake the radio display is dimmed (dimmed so much that you cannot see the clock anymore) Ouch! No, I don't have an answer for you, but I can make an educated guess...

Originally Posted By: Pesca Originally Posted By: DracoFelis ... And don't forget that "flashing bulbs" (turn signals, etc) often won't work properly with LED modules UNLESS you either add a loading resister OR swap out your stock flasher unit with an "electronic flasher" (I went with the...

Originally Posted By: bprimerano Low beams Stock 11.94 volts 47.8 watts 788 Lumens New 13.95 volts 65.3 watts 1340 Lumens High beams Stock 11.76 volts 54.8 watts 1275 Lumens New 13.60 volts 73.5 watts 2095 Lumens Clever. And I can see this sort of mod being potentially useful on a car that...

Originally Posted By: ffracer The whole premise of why DRLs are not useful is that you should be focused on the car's motion, not a focal point on the headlights, which creates target focus. Totally agree. That's why I'll sometimes turn on my secondary lights (so people can easier see the...

Originally Posted By: pemdas This is something that I always questioned and wanted to read what others thougts are regarding flushing with tap water. If you do a cooling system flush using tap water you will never get all of that water out of the system. Once you refill the system with a 50/50...

Originally Posted By: FrozenPilot There are LEDs right now that are bright enough, but are aimed in the wrong direction. This is clearly a YMMV thing, depending upon both the module selected AND the shape and mounting angle of the "bulb" in your car. As I see it, there are several...