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For $475...you bet I'm doing it myself! You can buy all of the tools you need to complete the job (socket set, pliers, jack, jack stands, caliper compression tools etc) and use the tools time and time again for future work on your car and other household items.

Doh!! My mistake.

Personally...for an engine that's covered over 455,000km and serviced every 30,000km...I think the engine looks to be in very good condition! As your now reducing the oil change interval to approx 15,000km...I see no reason why that engine can't hit over 600,000km (provided you keep maintaining...

Same with me. I've run several 0w20 and 5w20 oils (manufactured by several small Middle East oil blenders) in 42-47c heat for years. Oil is changed every 10,000km...no issues to report. Ditto for other grades (5w30, 10w30 etc...all regionally produced oils from manufactures most readers on this...

That certainly hasn't been my experience (on any fluid I've used, not just Aisin fluid). Hopefully you don't experience any more issues in the future...

What makes you say the Aisin fluid is crap? Based on the Mazda forums I browse, any ATF which states compatible with the Mazda FZ fluid should work fine: Aisin, Castrol, Valvoline, Shell, Mobil etc all make compatible fluids. There's also a guy who runs AC Delco Dexron VI (with lubeguard...

Any 30 weight oil will be fine: 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30 will all work. Personally I'd use whatever 30 weight oil you're using for your other cars for your Civic (assuming the oil meets and/or exceeds oil requirements noted within the civic's owners manual). Happy driving!

In my Mazda (L5VE engine - car came with factory installed oil cooler as I live in the Middle E), I've run several different oil grades (ie 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40,15w40...and a blend of spare 15w40 and 20w50 I had lying around). No major issues with any of the aforementioned grades (the...

No idea to be honest. Can only comment based on my experience, where I haven’t had any drips/leaks from reinstalling a used oil filter. Oil filters (on my car) are installed hand tight only, and removed by the same set of hands (without any special tools) 10,000km later…

Same with me. I’ve got a different model Mazda car to you, but factory fill was with FL22 coolant. Where I live (Middle East), Zerex asian green is difficult to come by (and quite expensive when it’s available for purchase). Zerex asian red is far less expensive (compared to green) and widely...

For me: Front pads: Ferodo Premier. The "premier" branding is just fancy marketing speak for Ferodo's OE replacement pads. I experience "brake creep" when the pads are cold. Disappears as you get heat into the pads (ie after a few brake stops). Unsure if it's due to not machining the old...

I couldn't find the latest SQ version, but here is the SN specs: http://www.pqiadata.org/STP_SYN_0W20_dexos.html Viscosity @ 40c = 43.35cST Viscosity @ 100c = 8.28cST Viscosity Index = 170 Noack = 13.1%

Yes, I've drained the old oil out of a filler (push the anti drain back valve back using a screwdriver, then tilt the filler and let the old oil drain out). No issues with re-installation, no leaks from the filter etc... and that filler completed another 10,000km (so 20,000km total on the...

Interesting to read through the various opinions, especially as a non-american. Can see the same themes (majority of people live close to where they grew up, high housing market cost, high living costs, people staying home longer into adulthood etc) occurring to other people (of similar age)...

Agree. Consuming 1 quart per 1000 miles represents (to me) a severe mechanical issue which is unlikely to be solved by switching to a higher viscosity oil. If your issue is stuck rings, hopefully running Valvoline Restore and Protect (or equivalent product) will help. If it doesn’t work…time...

Works quite well on Mazda cars as well (including 2013 and later Mazda models where Mazda operated independently from Ford). EDIT: Posted too late!

What was the spill quantity? 3L? 4L? Or something else? I'm guessing spill quantity was close to 4L given you let the car sit overnight and (presumably) didn't start the car before you drained the transmission.

This will blow your mind:

For inner tie rods (as well as outer if you don't have the right sized spanner/wrench), I'd use a Stilson/pipe wrench. 250mm/10" or 300mm/12" works well.

Mazda 6 with the 5 speed FS5A-EL transmissionmission (from what I've read, this transmission is very similar to the Ford FNR5 transmissionmission found in the Ford Fusion, Ford Mercury etc). At 125,000km (when I first purchased the car), I completed a "drain and fill" using Mazda M-V...