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I run a 1998 L29, not the same engine but similarish, and it loves 0w40 Euro oil. Obviously the engine didn't tell me it has emotions about anything, but it has steadier and higher hot idle oil pressure, which was my goal. An unexpected and welcome side effect was a 90% reduction in cold start...

Straw man. None of us have said it can't happen. Several of us have indeed said we haven't personally seen it, and have seen a more gentle failure mode. The steel on that compressor tank looks fine, yet it ruptured and tore like it did? I'm calling shenanigans. Mechanical overpressure issue...

I've had several compressors rust through. None ever went BANG and took out a building like a grenade, they just start leaking.

Depends entirely on usage. Spraying or continuous use, sure continuous CFM is king. Busting off lug nuts, a big tank and a large line or lines leading to the impact wrench make the difference. A large tank lets a small compressor do some big work, even if not continuously. That combo is also...

My experience is the bottles will have a problem before the oil does.

Around here, used compressors are either clapped out borderline scrap metal, or people are asking five bucks less than new. If you're not in a hurry, get a good idea for specs, keep your eyes open and see if a used deal comes around. Otherwise, used makes no sense, in this area.

Lots of people claiming that if a transmission has never had it's fluid changed, best not to change it, because they had some cousin's uncle's dog's C6 or TH350 that went flawlessly for hundreds of thousands of miles and then they changed the fluid and it died shortly after. Ask WHY they changed...

I would consider paying for YT premium if it included a "no AI" mode.

Keep in mind that YT is a business for these creators, and unfortunately clickbait is what's promoted by the YT algorithm. Play their game by their rules, or sit on the bench. Jason probably hates it too, but he has a business to run. How much advertising by other companies in the world do you...

I am absolutely not giving any credence whatsoever to whatever YT thinks is "verified accurate content."

Yes the 15w40 is the only conventional tested. Only conventional I own for that matter. Not buying any new oils for this test, only using what I have on hand.

I don't watch AI videos. Instant fail, game over. Do not recommend channel. FYI, if you click thumbs down on a video, it's still considered audience engagement. Better to just leave.

Suspect at 100c the 15w40 will be fine with the milk frother. Might try the plastic beakers just full of water and see how soft they get at 100c. Limit the mess if things get ridiculous. Thinking in a water bath double boiler type setup.

Sorry, I just meant there would be more to this particular experiment than that one post. I don't have any plans to do further testing. A 100c test would be relatively easy but I'm not buying glass beakers. These cheapo Amazon beakers don't list a temperature rating, but if I get bored one day...

Yeah I don't care. Engines don't have milk frothers either, or 10,000 other variables I don't care about.

Alrighty, skip ahead four more minutes, and here's the final result. So, what conclusions can we draw from this? Not a danged thing. This was not a scientific test in any way, this was a guy goofing off in his shop. Thank you for listening to my Ted Talk.

Next, photos at one minute intervals. I wish this forum allowed inserting thumbnails instead of full photos. Can see a small decline of aeration towards the right, which makes sense as those beakers have had more time to de-aerate. Outlier still being an outlier.

Alrighty, goofing off in the shop with a milk frother and some lab beakers. Left to right, Mobil 5w30 full synthetic, Mobil 0w40 Euro, Supertech 15w40 conventional, Delo 5w40 XSP, and everyone's favorite foam monster............Rotella 5w40. Added 200ml per beaker and let the foaming begin...

JDM import Land Cruiser Prado with the 1KZ.

I like Rotella just fine, I've used it plenty in relatively low rev diesels and will use it again when it makes sense............... and Rotella has no business being in that engine. Stick with the VR1. Or 0w40 Euro. Why even switch?