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If amsoil was a problem, zero vehicles I've bought in the last 8 years would have survived. I've used it in everything from a Ford taurus, scat pack and hellcat, my previous and current Silverado, and my camaro's 565 before I switched from Amsoil Dominator to HPL BARO. As others have said...

7. I internally call "BITOG" Robert Is The Oil Gentleman to sound fancier to myself

With how much lower the noack is on the 5W-30, I'm definitely going to want to run this in my wife's turbo 1.3L trailblazer

The website is now showing the new formulation is rolling out, and packages may have a mix of old and new as the supply of old runs out. The new formulations shows better noack across the board and slight viscosity changes as well.

The three things I look at when choosing oil are viscosity index, HTHS, and noack. As far as filters, I'd go for something like a carquest premium. They are 10 bucks, 99.5% efficient at 20 microns, and are built very well. You can't beat them for cost and quality.

What makes an oil filter different in filtration efficiency as it loads up versus an air filter? Not being sarcastic, genuinely curious. I'd think the general principle would apply to any type of filter, assuming one doesn't leave an oil filter on long enough to need to constantly be in bypass.

Once I hit 5k, I'll drain and sample my current fill of Max Duty.

Second break-in oil change, wear metals trending down. A little bit more fuel dilution and soot, I had to do some idling waiting on work stuff. My next oil up is the Amsoil Euro AFL 5W-40, the next UOA will be the current fill of Amsoil Max Duty 10W-30 at 5k miles. Looks like a good indication...

Just paid 6 dollars more for another 5qt jug of Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 at Walmart for the wife's car. 31 bucks isn't bad for an oil change, but adds up

Do you want to be cyber bullied? Because this is how you get cyber bullied.

I definitely want to run their Premium or CC 5W-40 in my babymax at some point. I have to go through a couple oil changes of Amsoil AFL first, though. I want to use that up and get a UOA or 2 done before I switch.

Understandable given the current situation overseas. It would have been nice to at least get flat rate shipping they normally do with the discounts, though.

I've been checking the website daily since last Friday, I figured they might be waiting to put it up tomorrow.

It seems to be a regular thing for AAP. The same Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 I buy for my wife's car at Walmart for $28 ($25 when on sale), is $43 at AAP, but you get a "free" filter with the bundle. The 5qt jug from walmart plus the $10 CQ Premium is still cheaper than their bundle. I only buy filters...

There shouldn't be any issues with oil deteriorating wet belts. BMWs, MBs, etc. have been using wet belts for years, even in their diesels in Europe. If someone is that worried about their wet belt, they could look at oils that meet BMW and MB specs.

It was about 100 degrees in Texas today, I felt bad for my babymax "only" having 30 grade in it lol

This diesel oil in classic and racing vehicles thing needs to die. OP, Amsoil Z-rod and Driven GP-1 both have corrosion inhibitors for long term storage. I'd suggest either one of those.

I bought a couple Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 5qt jugs for my wife's 1.3L Trailblazer. I saw that $25 price and figured I should pull the trigger.

Did another gear oil change at 2620mi, last one at 899mi as mentioned in my last post. Same fluid as before, HPL Differential Life 75W-140. PPE drain and fill magnets were covered in wear metals. The spots on the shop towels were sparkly. Gear oil in the drain pan sparkled like metallic paint...

From this thread: https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/lm2-engine-oil-temp.1030787/ OP reached 250 degrees and was towing 1500lbs behind his truck. Another user reached 235 just driving.