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You can either go to a thicker grade, or shorten your oil change intervals.. or both. As long as you get your engine temp above 170 degrees, it'll burn off the moisture from the ethanol. You'll definitely break down the oil faster if you're running the car for short intervals and not letting it...

I placed an order for 12qts of 5W-30 Bad Ass Racing Oil. Not going to pass on their oils for an even better discount than the BITOG one.

FWIW, Amsoil now has DexosD listed on their 5w30 diesel oil bottles for which specs it meets or exceeds.

Probably one of the worst filters I've ever seen.

HPL makes great oil. I use their racing oil in my Camaro's 565

Not really, I've been an amsoil user almost exclusively for a few years. I usually buy enough to keep my PC membership free throughout the year. Mobil 1 makes great oil though. I don't see a need for 0W oil unless you live in a cold region. Less viscosity modifiers means more stable oil at...

The most idling I do is a few minutes before before I start my driving in the morning. I'd hope it's not a leaking injector with only 19k miles on my truck, but it's not like GM has had some issues lately. I emailed LSJ about my fuel dilution issue last night when I saw the report and he told...

I wouldn't be opposed to using a 40 grade. I haven't seen anything about the engine temps getting that high, but me being in Texas, I can believe it

I occasionally watch DemonWorks videos on YouTube, and he has a video or two showing various UOAs for the babymax. The UOAs with 5W30 have always been noticeably lower in wear metals than the 0W-20s. The Rotella MV and Amsoil 5W-30 showed some of the lowest from what I saw Does HPL offer a...

Yeah, my last oil change was at 13,700ish with the HPL

Switched from HPLs 0W-20D after less than stellar wear metal totals. Amsoil 5W-30 Diesel Oil showed a very good reduction in wear metals. Not sure what caused the fuel dilution increase, only thing I can think of is that I use OptiLube XPD every fill up, so I'm going to stop using it as much...

I used Fram titanium 12447s on my 3.0 duramax Silverado. Every one I've cut open has had a wire backing and no quality issues that I could find

If you can find OG Fram Titanium FS5s at your local Advance, I'd say go for those. I have a stash of them for my BBC

Almost 14k miles. I've done 4 oil changes since new to flush out break in materials

I do, but it was for the break in period when I switched from factory fill to the 0W-20 Amsoil 100% synthetic diesel oil. The only thing I have to go on right now is this one

Not really sure how to feel on this one. Wear metals very high, but the comments remark that it could be a conflict with my previous oil used, which was Amsoil 100% synthetic diesel oil. Going to do a double flush and move up to 5W-30 and stick with Amsoil

36qts of 5W-30 HPL Bad Ass Racing Oil

I just sent off a used oil sample of HPL's PP 0W-20 D to SPEEDiagnostix a couple days ago. Hopefully next week I'll have an analysis of it to see how it compares to the other DexosD oils. I switched to Amsoil's 5W-30 100% Synthetic Diesel Oil, though. All of the UOAs I've seen of LZ0s using...

There's plenty of oils on the shelf that are made for classic cars with more zinc. You go that route if you don't want to spend too much, or you can go fancier with something like Amsoil Z-rod or Driven GP1.