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I had the factory LE2's on my Tacoma and aside from the wet/rain performance being terrible, I very much liked them for the quiet ride, decent towing, beautifully even wear, and good handling. Lasted around 110'000kms. I was gonna get LE3's but at the last minute I switched my mind to LTX M/S2...

I speak as an automotive mechanic that is currently a hvac and fire suppression technician for mobile mine equipment (dozers, excavators, haul trucks, etc) The proper way to get the right amount of oil is to remove the compressor and txv(if equip, if it's an orifice tube system you'll be okay...

You have too much oil in the system. Low side is a little high and high side also seems a little high. At your temperature recirc off, I would expect low side to ride closer to 30-35 psi and high side 150-180 psi. Recirc on it should cycle off near 20 psi or some. When you change a compressor...

I very confident that the torque spec for your drain plug should be 30# as others have mentioned. Get a day subscription to TIS (Tis is the Toyota factory service manual) to verify. Just because something was posted online doesn't make it true.

If the system pressures are reading flat on the gauges then it leaked out. R134a on a cold vehicle should have a static system pressure of roughly the temperature in F* so of it's 70* outside you should have roughly 70 psi, 90* should have close go 90psi. A pressure temperature chart will have...

Worn out harmonic balancer/cheap aftermarket balancers/flywheels/torque converters also throw off engine harmonics and cause internal engine issues

You should try that with factory GM stick on weights... especially when it's cold out... I also like those style stick on weights

Yes, GM required the numbers for warranty and we printed off a copy for the customers WO. Brand new freshly mounted tires can't really be road forced. You have to drive them around for a few days first. During shipping and handling they aren't in their intended shape supported by air so road...

For sure try the hub rings first. I suggest the plastic ones. The metal ones for some reason seem to make things worse

For a truck running LT- rated tires and/or mud tires, I consider that okay. For cars and passenger p-rated tires I aim for under 20lbs. I think 17lbs was the spec but it's been 5 years since I last did it so imm kinda hazy on the specs

You beat me to it, yes the tires have to be warmed up first. Brand new tires I wouldn't road force because depending on storage/shipping they could be a little deformed. If someone brought me their vehicle with a complaint of a vibration that I thought would be tires then I would purposely take...

Acdelco top engine cleaner also works well but pricey

Also interested in this answer. A Uscope is attractive to me but between cost and preferring a scope with 2+ channels, i've held off

Technically no of course but no one checks as we don't do inspections

I believe all OEM's recommended changing the filter every other oil change... however that is in the past. Arguably I feel like the filter is the important part of the oil change, I am not an expert though. Unless you're driving a diesel, filters are cheap enough that they should be changed...

It for sure helps alot. The less a vehicle is driven, the more issues it will have down the road. I usually recommend people drive their vehicle on the highway for atleast an hour once a month to keep everything exercised. I think technically to be considered not a short trip by most...

A cheat code I can recommend is to go to a shop that does BG services... just because they'll have the fancy pressure/vacuum machine and will more than likely use that. Not a guarantee but we certainly took advantage of the machine. No reason to cut corners when you have that thing to make quick...

Of course it's not optimal engine operating conditions but even in this environment I would run 5K in the summer, 3K in the winter or 6 months. What ever comes first. Long term wise, after a highway run or other spirited driving, it's a good idea to idle for a minute or two to allow the turbo...

I would personally keep flushing it until it stays clean at that point before committing to the proper anti-freeze mix. I'd drive around for a day or so with each fill then drain and repeat. Maybe with a decent splash of concentrated coolant in for water pump lubricity reasons

Depends. When I was at GM we would resurface rotors under warranty because as per GM, if it was able to be turned warranty wouldn't pay for a new one. 60% of the time it could be turned without being too thin. Customer pay jobs we usually replaced them because by the time the brake pads wore...