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Or this?

Readiness test for the cat must have passed at least the first time it ran, since the last time you cleared the DTC. The readiness codes remain until you clear the DTC.

I was wondering (all I can do from here) if they had seen a burnt clutch, condemned the compressor, and pulled the system down to inspect the lines. And afterward decided it wasn't worth their time to put the charge back in. This wouldn't make much sense with 15 PSI in it now. If you want to...

As mentioned by wag123 earlier, compressor clutch failure was a common problem on these. Complete system failure is rather rare. That can be visually checked, for damage. Honda extended the warranty for these they were so common. Most failed long ago, and the warranty extension has long expired...

The system certainly wasn't empty if you had the readings in the first photo. They are not being honest, try another shop. If the system is indeed now empty (you can check that with your gauges) it will need an evacuation too now. So you probably shouldn't try to fill it on your own.

This was poorly written. Edit above to : Whether the high side ....

Because you stated it runs cold, it's likely low charge. A slipping clutch will become blue, and burnt looking in short order. Where the ports are in the system, and what the pressures do in live time, is always a consideration. Example - If there's a blockage - the high side can start out at...

No sorry

Sorry, I should have added a ;) It has a 3.3 star rating, but because one 5 star rating was due to it being the ideal gag gift.

This fuel saving device is sold on Amazon for $4.99, improves HP, battery life, and emissions...

Unfortunately the practice of "living within your means", makes no sense to many folks.

Not a fan of either party myself. Was just making a reference to the Spaceballs movie.

Some people are easily convinced there's something to be scared of - that's how politics work.

A clue would be how easy the pads were to remove from the holders, during disassembly. I have had many where a hammer was required to get them loose. Remember once they do start to bind they will stick in both directions. Coming in late, and not totally backing off after the pedal is released...

When the brackets rust, the dimensions change, and the pads bind. Remove the brackets, and any rattle clips on them, and clean any rust from the area indicated to bare metal. Coat the area with a brake grease, to slow future corrosion. An ounce of prevention sort of thing.

I've seen this on cars in the Great White North. Brakes there need to be "serviced" regularly, to ensure the pads slide easily in their brackets. Otherwise they can wear unevenly, and the salt will really do a number on the rotors.

Yes, many needed a "valve job", and also the rest of the vehicle was not built to last either. It was common to have to replace several suspension parts way before that 100k. And maybe a muffler or two.

I did many oil changes on these, and I only recall seeing parts of gaskets, seals, and some carbon. There was also usually a pasty substance, across the bottom plate, that would rinse off in the parts cleaner. 3,000 mile OCIs were called for, never used synthetic, they did have an oil cooler...

I've always wondered if this was the inspiration for K&N air filters. Less restriction = gained HP, and it's reusable after a cleaning. ;)

Volkswagen filters were the ones to beat back then.