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On old push rod engines you pull the distributor and use basically a long hex shaft tool to prime it installed. What drives the pump on that 6.2? That pump shown has what looks like a 5/16 drive input. If you can not get to whatever drives in installed, just bolt on the pick up and put the...

I connected one of the generic inverters and 500 watts of panels a couple years ago. On the second day there was a guy from the electric company at my house telling me it was illegal. Apparently the new meters can see what you are doing.

Real trucks have 2 doors and an 8 foot bed.

Those do look sharp and I would like to feel how hard they pull. I can not get the math to work for me though at $24K. I have been putting about 15K a year on my old Lincoln at 25mpg. Even if gas reached $4 that would be $2400 a year. 10 years to break even if electricity was free. Then there is...

I do not know the technical reason to why it should not be used. I bought Motorcraft Mercon V maybe 15 years ago and it said "Do not use in transfer case" on the label. That is all the why I need.

The manual called for Mercon on both. Where did you see it calling for Mercon V in the transfer case? Ignore that source of information forever since Mercon V is specifically prohibited in t-cases. As for "best", probably a TES-295 or 668.

The Aftermarket posi is not the only thing using the lube. You have gears and bearings in that 1 ton axle calling for 140.

Looks like a purge line but I have not seen one with metal inside. Have your guy check the hose farther back in the picture. That one looks bad also.

What model number is that scope? Those pictures are far superior to the ones I have produces.

I am not grasping this. You will remove a bolt and grind it some. Why can't you leave that bolt out, do the brake job, then put the bolt back in?

Again that number is the winter rating where it is safe to start. It is not a thickness.

The special tool is the air compressor. Small piece of wood between the piston and caliper body to stop it. I have done it several times. No more dangerous than most things car related.

10w, 15w, or any number in front of the W(winter rating) does not indicate the viscosity or thickness. It only means the lowest temperature rating you should start the engine at. The grade (number after the W) indicates thickness.

Where is this info coming from? Never heard of Extreme 5w-40. The 1300 and Extreme are still on the US site. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/about-us/mobil-delvac

That specific oil does a good job cleaning up. Where did you find the 10w-30 version?

Thanks for the link. It confirms the usage in the oil as Jack described.

Why not just fix the problem? Where is it leaking; valves or rings? This is one of the simplest engines to repair. Zero percent chance the rebuild will go 250k.

Very interested in this as I think the ester is gone from the 5w-40. Are you getting oxidation value?

Op asked if it is ok to use MMO. Donald refered to a test that resulted in MMO making the fuel worse. Some relevant data versus the rest of us giving opinions.

There are many here way more experienced than me with these. I can speak to a sample size of one 2014 L86 with about 140k. When I had the heads off after it ate a lifter, the valves were really clean. Clean enough that I debated even cleaning them.