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Although our JD x350 is impossible to access from top because of gas tank....I may still add drain plugs because that way any debris will go to bottom and drain out while Hot 🔥. Inverting transmission seems to allow debris to stay in transmission. Just saying...

Air cooled - means keep cooling fins clear! A lot of folks never take the time to remove engine covers and clean engine cooling fins. Keep air filter clean!

If that engine has hydraulic lifters, then I'd definitely use a multi grade synthetic oil. The temperature ranges per owner's manual are very specific. I use Mobil 1 10w30 High Mileage / Rotella T6 10w30 oil in son in law's 2002 Simplicity Broadmoor rider mower with 16 hp B&S Intek Twin. It now...

Follow owner's manual. In general, old flathead B&S engines use 30; newer OHV engines use 5w30 & 10w30 synthetic. Just change it frequently. Clean engine cooling fins. Most of all...keep air filter clean / replaced. Sucking in dirt will shorten engine life. Also clean undersides of mower deck +...

I've found it best to simply not overthink oil. Read owner's manual for oil weight specs and change it frequently. At less than 1 qt oil in most small Outdoor Power Equipment engines, it's low cost insurance.

My son bought me a Ariens snowblower 15 yrs ago after I crushed my left leg. Took me almost 2 yrs to recover. Anyway that Snow King Tecumseh engine has been easy to start and maintain. I'd say with Indiana weather it's only got about 200 hrs on it. Key is to always use fresh gas, change oil...

I've got a 2012 Honda mower with the 190 OHV and molded deck. Last year did valve adjustment and serviced the rear wheel gears/ bearings. Never will go back to B&S. Use 5w30 Mobil 1. Estimated yearly hours is 45 hrs - and I use my mower to mulch 2 - 60 yr old pi oak leaves. I've never raked...

That's fixing the problem....$1200 repair? Get more estimates from other shops / independent mechanics. Dealerships tend to be high and needed for new cars (warranty) but this H2 is older.

My son worked at Jiffy Lube during HS years. Most oil change places use bulk oil from 55 gal drums and it's conventional oil. A lot of folks want cheapest oil change....

The cost between synthetic and regular Conventional oil is so small that it's a no brainer to use synthetic oils per owner's manual.

Do you have to add any oil? A lot of guys say change oil just before using 1 qt. Myself? I'd err on more frequent OCI with regular (?) Synthetic before going over 7500 miles.

Relax. Quit worrying....in the old days folks would add a quart of kerosene to dissolve deposits and remove oil pans to scrape off sludge.. Today's engine oils are much better and higher Thermostats keep moisture a minimum. Back then when I worked on my cars Thermostats were typically 170-180 F...

My son drove a lot as salesman for steel company....his Acura bought used at 18k miles was sold running fantastic at a mere 246k in only 5 years. He used Mobil 1 + filters at 5-6k OCI...Old oil always came out ok and mechanics said at both 105k timing belt replacements his valve train was...

Interesting thread....and goes to remind car DITY mechanics to check oil / lube / ATF products for our vehicles. I'm Old School...can still remember arguments if 30 at vs 10w40 oil. Back then 1qt cost 25 cents and Mobil 1 was insanely priced $1+ qt.👍