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IMO, the best made hand tools on earth. My Nepros wrenches are my most special hand tools. It adds to the ritual of changing oil when I have a ceremonial wrench, lovingly polished even on the INSIDE. Six point, zero offset. Fits the plug immaculately.

In general a tighter bearing clearance is a good thing. You get more bearing capability and less sensitivity to viscosity. But "when a bearing becomes a filter" as someone drily posted before, things get sideways fast-- you have NO margin for error. I think one key takeaway is that oil...

and the reality of poverty.

I'm using HPL Recip Life. Haven't commisioned the compressor yet, too soon to comment other than it's water-clear and super slick.

I've had good luck with most of the Icon tools I've bought. I now own quite a bit of the stuff. A really short review of all my Icon stuff: Pliers: Superb. Especially the diagonal cutters, which will snip human hair. Chrome Sockets: legit snap on contenders. Super snug fit like snapon...

Highly unlikely that it's a design flaw in any sense other than they designed something they apparently cannot build in quantity to acceptable quality levels. It's one thing to pass an engine test with jeweler's sample prototype parts that are in the middle of tolerance and far better than they...

Half of mobil's synthetic product line is a waste of shelf space, change my mind.

Advertising doesn't need good base stocks.

Many automatics will keep the converter locked and mimic the engine braking effect of a manual. My Accord does if I use "sport mode" (which I do almost all the time on the highway).

Thanks, I went back and forth between several ideas before settling on this one.

I think it has more to do with the early days of "energy conserving" ratings in the context of the mid 1980s. THe 1980s were the first time lube recommendations and formulations considered fuel economy.

This is exactly what I would do and have contemplated doing. Staying withing a brand and base oil type (grp III) goes a long way toward avoiding much of the potential additive clash that often makes blending some-optimal. Tune your ratio of Advanced 20w-50 to Restore and Protect based on...

An engine that won't "properly break in" on synthetic probably just doesn't have the honing pattern and rings dialed in for it. TO the point someone else made-- I'd run a petro VR1 happily for a bit in an engine like this. While synthetics are categorically better, petro/dino/conventional oils...

The irony is that using their inferior oils is likely to cause you to need that warranty more than ignoring their advice.

Can we please stop giving clicks and interaction to the AI?

I'm really sorry to hear about your loss, that sucks. In late 2024, I set out to find a 10th generation Accord with 2.0T and six-speed. I had driven one way back in 2020 and fell in love. I snoozed two days on a gem and lost what turned out to be my last chance to really find one. I had a...

Of the oils you indicated, I'd choose the 0w-30 Helix Ultra. Of the oils you didn't list, I'd chose Mobil 1 ESP X4 0w40

My Dad has a Soul of that vintage that he still daily drives (as an IT administrator in his mid-70s!). His has been quite reliable.

I think for off the shelf oils, the Euro oils are almost certainly categorically superior. If I wasn't running HPL right now, I'd be using Euro FS 0w-40 myself. My speculation about Mg-rich additives having a slight edge in some duty cycles is really in the context of HPL formulations where...

Possibly, but I don’t know. A blend like 1300 super vs a premium Euro oil is sort of apples/oranges. Additive packs matter, but so do base oils. I would be very curious to see how a high-Mg CK-4 style formulation would have fared in many of the Euro engines that have struggled with oil...