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I’m dabbling with getting an X2 from Batteries Plus this fall. Why not?

2010 RVA4 rear brakes. Dynamic Friction Geospec rotors and pads. Delivered for under $100. 167,348 miles.

I only buy Dynamic Friction brakes these days. No vibrations, very quiet. Great prices.

I’ve always done the “tight, then an extra quarter turn” method without using a torque wrench. What is the official number, 29?

Yep, I’ve been noticing this on my 4Runner as well. It’s unnerving. Meanwhile, the drain plug in the (metal) filter housing also loosens up to an uncomfortable level. Weird.

I just put this exact battery into my kids’ new 2016 Forester. Lots of CCA’s and I only get Duracell’s these days. The 750 CCA Batteries plus option.

On my kids 2002 Sentra pile, I put one of these on. It still works after 2 years. Luckily he got a different car (2015 Forester from Grandma). Same as above, I put a Denso rad on it also, no idea what was OEM but I certainly was not going to put anything else on.

I know a 5th gen 4Runner can't tow more than 5k, but if you don't want the nanny-state of features, grab yourself one of those.

https://www.amazon.com/BUNN-Classic-10-Cup-Coffee-Brewer/dp/B000FFILRO/ref=asc_df_B000FFILRO?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920803409729&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=91872&hvtargid=pla-4583520382218144&psc=1 I will never not own one of these. Fast, hot, high...

Yes!

The title says it. Kid's car has the brake lights and the side markers up front stay on when the key is in the off position. He has to remove the battery cable to keep it charged when parked. First thought when I heard brake lights was the brake switch. Now I'm told some front lights stay on...

I've told the story here before. My former indy mechanic specifically brought me out a Mercury Cougar instrument cluster and showed me a tiny hole drilled into the side of the cluster, right where the CE light was, disabling it permanently. Some other shop did this maliciously and put it all...

I get a car and turn it on and NEVER turn it off again. The only A/C I've ever had to replace was after 260k on my 2005 CR-V when the compressor grenaded. 227k Civic, 165k Mazda MX-6, 284k CR-V, 154k and counting 4Runner. All cold and only the one replaced.

I did learn that info recently. With this kit, couldn’t be easier. TY.

I did not know about Speedi-bleed kits. I’ll be getting one of those $82 versions for the 4Runner. Way overdue to replacing that fluid.

It’s fantastic and is really eye opening.

I love my Nitto Grapplers. Super quiet and smooth at high speed.

This is why I insist only on TriVal (Pilkington). We have the evil terrible Fuyao glass manufacturer not far away and I’ve had two of those, never again.

I reverted back to Toyota WS after using Idemitsu WS (which is probably identical). All other fluids have never been OEM other than that. Pink Zerex, Valvoline diff fluids, Ravenol transfer case. Havoline 6-quart box and a Supertech quart from Walmart.

Don't worry about it. My 4Runner is spec'd for 75w-85 in the diffs. I did that at 57k, but when I did it around 100k I switched to the MUCH easier to use Valvoline 75w-90 bags. I'm at 152k. Zero issues. The only thing I stay true with is the straight 75w that goes into the transfer case...