Search results

I know there’s a separate thread on this somewhere, but this is how red the oil is coming out with low miles. It looked kind of red while draining, really shows up in the sun on the lip of the waste oil container at work.

2026 XC40. One of the last early oil changes, just shy of 3k miles on oil, just shy of 6k miles on engine. Castrol Euro M out and in, no filter change this time. Feels nice to whittle down the oil stash

Our Costco recently to went up to 69.99

I’d say the oil is doing well.

I have a similar issue when loading. What’s iron? Looks like 8?

How does it perform though? And will it be better or worse than new oil available on the shelf in say a year or so

I was more curious what @dogememe had specifically seen in his label changes

What part of the turbo are you expecting it to clean? Oil only sees the shaft and bearings. Turbine wheel doesn’t see oil unless seals are worn, just the exhaust flow. Similar for compressor wheel

I did a couple early changes and UOA just because for my own information. Other new Volvo owners can take what I posted and decide if it’s worth doing the same or not.

The oil looked fine in our ‘26 Volvo when I changed it early and the UOA showed little metal. I’m still glad I changed it in case it was the other way around. Coming up to the 3000 mile oil change soon.

Nothing wrong with that plan at all.

I would love to see a Valvoline Restore and Protect 0w40

I know you want to stick with 5k changes but with that report I would definitely try 6k when you do a lot of highway driving.

I have 2 in the driveway. One is 4 months old, one is 16 years old. I quite like them.

Yes any ‘ol proper spec oil will do just fine in the OP’s situation.

I remember Amsoil prices going up during Covid for a bit as well

With the healthy amount of Moly and Boron on top of the cleaning power at a very reasonable price point I’ll support that strategy.

Awhile back it was $700 CAD and change for Jiffy Lube to perform an oil change and fuel filters on one of the company diesel Rams and that was before price increases. It costs me around $300 in parts for Rotella and OEM filters. This is in Alberta

We’re assuming just bad metallurgy since the AFM is usually the failure point. I just recommended Motomaster 0w40 as it’s supposed to be a good oil.

I have a coworker that is repairing a newer 5.3 that took out a non-afm lifter camshaft lobe. I recommended he try 0w40, it had always been on 5w30 so we’re kind of surprised what happened.