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Sure, I speculate it has not. Still carries VW 504 00 which is what I'm after.

Not really since Blackstone has noted that there is no statistically significant difference in UOA results between any oil they have tested. It’s just not about the oil in a $35 spectrographic analysis. If you wanted to see differences you need something like the Sequence test. A UOA isn’t...

All the farm stores around me have it, and I saw it was on sale at NAPA today.

Just know that Asian manufacturers do not license their fluid.

Same way you’d quantify that Eneos is somehow most appropriate or superior.

That makes zero sense. Valvoline CVT is compatible with CVT-III. It says so right in the tech sheet. So is any other fluid that says it is compatible. And the thing about Amsoil - you're saying that if you use Eneos fluid the Subaru warranty automatically applies, not the one from Eneos? Really.

How does the moisture get into a pressurized system? Generally the only time moisture gets in is when the system is open to the atmosphere during some sort of repair, or by neglecting a discharged system. Water isn't being manufactured inside on an ongoing basis. So you evacuate the system...

Or really concerned about warranty violation, which is one of the items brought up in this thread. If that is true then it doesn't matter which aftermarket fluid is being used since there is only one OEM.

Learning is up to you.

There are no cheap 8-grade oils. But the rest, all day long.

I am most certainly not being sarcastic. You made the claim that the Eneos was closest to the OEM specification and I wondered what the basis was for that claim. Either way, it isn't about ingredients. Performance specifications aren't about composition but rather about performance. The means...

I hope so. My switch failed, and when it did it was in the high position. However, if it does fail in the low position then that results in a flashing CEL and a “no drive” condition.

Absolutely, depending on ambient. Or is that not what you’re asking?

Because some of them are just switches attached to a “gauge”, right? Idk if that’s the case here. My Tiguan’s EA888 is just a high/low setting like the others you mention. One hopes that it fails high, which is what usually happens.

Just a question, how are you determining the pressure?

How do you know this though? Where is the OEM spec and where is the Eneos spec?

Some do. And when they do, this is a pretty clear “violation” of the owners manual. One of the VW dealers I go to for parts has signs marketing upsell products, and yet the owners manual clearly states that such things are not to be used.

Have you ever actually experienced or seen someone lose? That’s an often-cited concern but we had a thread a while back on this and motor oil, and no one was able to give a personal example of it happening to them.

Go for it. I just wanted others to know that the assumption you’re making is not blindly true. That’s all.

Well that’s physically impossible, if that would be true then all the manufacturers would have to do is mandate the use of that brand instead of spending enormous amounts of money developing thinner grades. But I agree you will never, ever see a difference from the oil in everyday driving. 0.5...