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I've dealt with the damage on my own stuff years ago when I didn't know, and I've seen it with other's equipment. DO NOT try to save a buck and run anything with ethanol in a marine environment.

Has nothing to do with cancer. Public sanitary sewer is usually the preferred disposal route for ethylene and propylene glycols in low volumes. Even ethylene glycol although initially toxic to many microbes, quickly (days) breaks down into a food source for them. Not appropriate for septic as...

It's because it goes in sanitary sewer where everyone disposes of it now.

c'mon guys. Simple, ethylene or propylene glycol goes in sanitary sewer. virgin or otherwise.

Hormel black label is my go-to. Redily available and very good.

Great extended drain gear oil. used in otr apps extensively, racing apps, and helps hold together offshore outdrives when few others can. Also reasonably priced compared to other hi performance oils. (when purchased in 5 gallon pails)

Mobil delvac 1 80w140

Nope. 385 oils Mains and cam 1st. engine likes xw50 vr1 20w50 etc. 60 weight in hot weather will be fine.

Stop putting cats on vehicles. There's no real way to prevent theft of an object containing a precious metal. There will always be a buyer.

Final charge likes to leak. In the 7.3s I like traditional green w/scas. Simple and it works. Ive tried a number of elcs in equipment and vehicles, Ive found sticking with the green from zerex works best. if you like chasing leaks on oil coolers etc, by all means go with an elc of your choice.

yup, probably the crown. I've built and rebuilt many chimneys that were having similar symptoms, It has never once been the liner once the top was rebuilt, flashed properly, and I always pour a 4" concrete crown, mortar crowns are a common culprit.

Run the heaviest oil you can find and forget the restore. My reccomendation, Valvoline VR1 Straight 60 for a tired old engine, providing we're talking mild / warm weather.

Westwood or gar-ber (general filter) spin ons are great. I believe they are 10 micron absolute and epoxy coated inside to prevent rust-through. They significantly reduce issues with nozzle plugging and will keep your burner running clean. The only reason a lot of techs hate them is because they...

try an 00 grease, avail. at tractor supply.

I would be surprised if that were the case per btu. In most areas it is not. In my experience, many customers think that it is "cheaper" because they seem unable to grasp that you nedd 1.4-1.6 (depending on appliance efficiency) gallons of propane to equal 1 gallon of heating oil. For example...

so, you replaced an oil furnace with an 80% propane? Modern oil to modern 80%propane you would have been much less $$ per btu to stay with oil. You also likely wouldn't have had to reline the flue. Yes, not enough heat in the stack and/ or not enough dilution air to let it dry between cycles...

Williamson is one of the two best oil furnaces on the market. (Other one being thermopride). I prefer the Williamson over the thermo Pride because the clb series units have a great heat exchanger design and they're the only ones that don't have a circuit board on the unit just a terminal strip...

Modulating parts are more expensive more failure prone and less easily understood by the average run-of-the-mill Tech. As someone who does this for a living I can strongly suggest a two stage and avoid York products. The only way I would suggest modulating is if we are doing a full variable AC...

We warm up our vehicles 20-30 min. every morning when it's less than 10 out; 10-15min under 30F. I heat my house and office for comfort, I'm not going to freeze my ass off in a cold vehicle. I care not a bit about fuel costs. Not a fan of those who whine about it being wasteful. Everything...

Trane S9V2