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Yes, if the screens are dirty or become dirty and then thicker oil runs through them, this can be a problem. If xW40/50 is not drastically thicker than 0W20 or 5W20/30, then what would be? Would xW30 not be a middle ground to have the benefits of both ends of the spectrum? It seems like you’re...

Most likely because 0W20 was not specified and there was no one to fall for it yet.

No, it was never fully resolved. Engines from as early as 2008 and as late as 2016 are affected. There’s an updated actuator and even those will develop the rattle. I think the key is not running 0W20 and making sure the oil level is always full. One could argue the case for the expensive racing...

Common enough that Honda issued a TSB back then, replacing them under warranty along with the guys in Canada starting a company to remedy the issue. Glad to know that yours doesn’t have it.

Sure. All that time to respond and that’s all you can come up with? Yet you make no attempts to educate anyone or show why. Run 20W50 in your Honda this winter and report back.

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It’s not that it would fail above a certain grade, it’s that depending on the climate, heavier grades may not circulate through the engine as well. xW40 would be containing additives to make it perform like an SAE 40 at operating temperature, and like a thinner oil at start up. That’s the...

I think it would and I also think it’s got a lot to do with how thick the oil is at the cold start. 40 is at the upper limits of what these engines are designed to run from what I understand, even though multi-viscosity oils aren’t true 40 weight oils. I’ve seen VOAs that show that the 0W30’s...

Someone posted in another forum that 10W40 took his rattle away. I’ve run grades between 0W20 and 10W30, except 0W30 and 5W40. For me though, the rattle does not happen, or is very faint or brief the colder it is outside. Even after sitting for more than 12 hours. This is why I think oil...

That wasn’t my point. I was only illustrating that the spectrum of resolutions can be that simple and minute on one end.

There are several high performance tensioners on the market, but they are expensive. Worth it only if the owner plans to keep the vehicle for the long term. Essential if performance cams are installed. The K series (with turbo) is a common swap into anything imaginable. It’s the new LS swap...

The revised R5A actuator will also develop the rattle. I think a big factor is the use and burn off of 0W20. Some people have even made as little of a change as going to 5W20, or have done an engine treatment with Seafoam and had the rattle stop. The chains don’t actually stretch - the pins in...

Weird, that’s the same one everyone gets. I even bought some because they were cheap and mine must be wrong, they are smaller around. Anyway, the newer upgraded actuators still rattle after a while. Best to run 5W30 as well.

Those springs from Amazon, etc. don’t work for everyone. The other part of it is to make sure the locking pin moves in and out of the detent in the back plate of the gear freely. Can you provide a link to the spring you used? The spring you’ve got pictured there looks closer to the diameter it...

Buy the entire kit at http://spring-start.com Don’t guess and use random springs. They have had a mechanical engineer work with them to find the right spring rate, and the kits come with the right size high quality Torx bits.

http://spring-start.com

What I'm saying is, none of that makes much sense at all, the meanings. 'Four-wheelers' and 'Riders' allude to ATV and motorbike usage.

That's in the Philippines though, not necessarily the US or anywhere else.

Where are you getting that information from?

Well, I know I heard what he said. Then again, he had no idea what IFG stood for. Do you know?