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If it wasn't for this, I'd still have mine. But a couple of kiddos in car seats really exposed how small the cabin area is. My wife's car at the time was a midsized Chevy Malibu and it handled kid life far better than the Crown Vic. Like you say, terrible for a car of it's external dimensions...

How 90's is that first pic. Love it. Clothing colors, hair style, the Technics SA-500 for shop tunes, and the car of course

Big fan of all of these "wet" coatings. Below are pictures of my 2011 Crown Vic that I began coating with fluid film in 2012 when it was less than one year old, before it saw it's first winter. At the time of the photos, it was 12 years old with 105k on it.

I think there's some confusion here. Flat tappet vs roller are what's riding on the cam. Solid vs hydraulic determine lash adjustment. There are solid and hydraulic versions of both roller and flat tappet.

Police springs give a taller ride height than civilian. The car will have a rake stance if just the rears are replaced. Also, the newest ones are now 13 years old, and new replacements are cheap. Might not be worth the effort

For me it depends on if they are notoriously failure prone or if this is likely to be an isolated incident. For example, back when the GM Multecs were prevalent, I almost always replaced as a set. I can't think of anything I'd still do that for today, however.

I put the CC865 springs in my 2011 Crown Vic LX. They worked great for me: the original springs rode fine empty, but a couple of adults in the back seat or anything more than a load of groceries in the trunk had the headlights pointing at the moon. These improved the condition by quite a bit and...

If you are worried about tape residue destroying your tires, I would be avoiding asphalt pavement at all costs.

Well, since most people neglect their cars just like any other appliance, it's not unreasonable that manufacturers design them with that neglect in mind, is it? I miss the days before we had to bother with these tin-can fuel filters of today and I got to shovel coal with a big-boy steel shovel...

Somehow I doubt these people intentionally removed and destroyed their engine parts, reassembled, then took them in for repair. But, I've been wrong before. Never saw a plastic thermostat housing do this Vehicles need to survive many environments. Not just yours. Nothing is perfect, but maybe...

I just had a brass radiator re-cored 2 years ago. On that same vehicle, I had to repair the intake manifold sealing surface with epoxy because it was too pitted to seal on the head. Lat week, I replaced an aluminum thermostat housing that was too corroded to seal both on the intake manifold and...

I can maybe get behind some of these ideas. Most not: 1. Metal intake manifold: If coolant run through them, maybe. However, most manifolds are "dry" now and simply flow air and PCV gases. These smooth wall plastic manifolds simply perform much better. They are much better shaped, flow much...

8-10k car, name doesn't matter much anymore. As previously mentioned, buy the best condition car you can for the budget.

The point where the water freezes solid and thoroughly is where you have to be concerned. A few hours of 28 degree air temp around otherwise warmer equipment will never get there. At worst, a little slushy content starting at the highest/most exposed points. But even that is unlikely.

Alternatively, you can simply remove the valve core from your compression tester to make a temporary tool.

It's a function of emissions compliance. Second plug is an afterburn device, reducing HC's in the exhaust. Because of this, Ford and Chrysler had been able to soldier on with traditional port fuel injection longer where GM went DI earlier. IIRC, the 5.7 Hemi had never gone DI and had always...

Is spending $8600 and the expense of plating, insuring, and maintaining another car worth it to "save" another? You could replace the entire driveline multiple times on that Suburban before it costs you that much.

As far as frequency of problems, I'd say they are all pretty much equal. I'll give the nod to the pushrod V6s for ease/low cost of repair. No real PITA jobs on the 3.8 and 4.3. Timing set and exhaust manifolds are no fun on the 4.6.

lol I had this same thought after reading a few other posts in this thread. I have a truck. I like it. Admittedly, in this day and age, I don't need it: What I need I get delivered. Delivery is cheaply available for almost anything nowadays. If I want stuff hauled away, I list it for cheap on...

2" metal hole saw, make a hole above the captive nut from the interior side. Cut the captive nut out, assemble cab mounts using regular nut/washer/bolt. Plug 2" hole with rubber plug.