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Happened suddenly? If so, I wouldn't try to tune it out with adjustments. It'll never be right if you don't find the actual problem. Check that choke pull-off is working. It should crack the choke open slightly after starting.

Maybe. That particular set is still good 6 years later.

Last time I bought Detroit axle struts, they were quite literally Monroe OE Spectrums reboxed. Still had Monroe part numbers stamped into the steel body and still had the Monroe labels stuck to them. For what that's worth.

Lol. As an owner of multiple, not sure you have to worry about extra risk with a V8 panther. About as tame as a kitty cat. Can get in as much trouble with a V6 Taurus, or less. When I was a kid, my 3.1 Cutlass Supreme had more potential for trouble than my 4.6 Crown Vic, with the Cutlass...

A kid's first car likely won't have the chance to prove it's ability to be durable or long lasting. No kid is going to drive his first car to 400k. miles. I don't care how great they were considered to be in their time: all of those cars are OLD and therefore they will likely be needy. And...

No tricks. Gasoline is already one of the best solvents. If there are solids in the carb now, they'll stay there until mechanically removed.

Yes, it matters. Used to be, on vintage engines, different water pumps were spec'd for AC and non AC cars. This is because fan speed had to change with a condenser added. The accomplished higher fan flow with smaller water pump pulley diameter. Because water pump speed was higher on an AC car...

The motorcraft arms are not the same as the originals. They are rebranded aftermarket.

Yours would not be the only RAM on the planet doing plow duty. They are everywhere, and holding up just fine. It's not like the E40D or 4R70 in your Ford is the pinnacle of durability either. As far as adapting the plow, buy the correct one if you don't have the fab skills.

Price is right. Even if it needed significant repairs, it's unlikely you'd exceed the resale if it's as clean as the low mileage would suggest.

If you don't include Ford's cheeseball IWE equipped systems, I don't think there's much difference.

I do it Makes for easier scraping in the morning. Blades aren't frozen to the windshield and no need to scrape around the blades.

All of this.

As with most arguments here, I feel like this is a function of environment. As usual, rust is a factor. Where I live, I find that rust eventually creeps between the boot and it's crimp to the joint, as well as rust buildup on the knuckle where the boot seats. That's eventually a path for...

Close:

I've considered. But the cost difference is too great. Gears, bearings, shims, seals will cost me maybe $500. A splitter setup is a few thousand on its own, plus I'll need to have a driveshaft made. A move from 4.10 to 3.54 will put me at 70mph @ 3000 rpm. That'll do just fine, I think.

Weld a nut to it and turn it out with a hex wrench or socket

Unless the investment made with the cash outpaces the cost of borrowing, which in this day and age is nearly a given. Pretty easy to beat 5-10%.

One method or another, it seems most here ARE fairly responsible, living within their means. I think these discussions are more about the broad population, which we don't necessarily represent. We all are disagreeing because we are all the exception and are somehow trying to relate the topic to...

Wrong. Cars are one of the most efficient ways to dig a financial hole. Not much else in life is as expensive as a car while eventually depreciating to $0. Done incorrectly, they can be one of the biggest financial mistakes in life. That said, in the end, the responsible always end up being...