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My only advice is to always use synthetic in a Hemi and don't exceed 7.5k miles. The owner's manual in our Jeep 5.7 says to never exceed 10k miles. That's it. It doesn't really explain what type of oil to use that can handle 10k. My mom used to follow what the dealer says according to their free...

Those old engines will like 10w-30 more anyway. Switching my LS1 to 10w-30 before summer.

Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver Some synthetic base stocks like PAO if i remember correctly have intrinsic solvent characteristics, others like Group III and Esters not so much. I figured group III would behave like group II in terms of cleaning. I bet it's each oil brand's high end line...

I occasionally read about synthetic becoming darker quicker and/or causing leaks in older MPI engines because it loosens leftover deposits in engines that supposedly always used conventional. Wouldn't fresh conventional with the same additives do the same thing, or does the fancier base stocks...

Originally Posted by Astro14 "I don't remember how long" and you didn't once pull the dipstick to see how it was doing during that time? That's not oil burning...that's neglect. With the new oil in there, start checking, and keep track of how long it takes to burn a quart. If you went several...

Originally Posted by Farnsworth It may be rear valve cover leak. These engines are not sludgers any more than others, only when very badly maintained. I was worried on ours we had, and at more miles than yours the heads were clean as a whistle not a trace of sludge. It had a rear cover oil leak...

It's the beater van with 170,000 miles, and I don't remember exactly how many miles it's been driven since I last changed it (somewhere between 5000-7000 miles with Pennzoil Platinum). I finally did an oil change recently and saw there was nothing on the dipstick, and what drained out was really...

Oil temperatures are nothing to be concerned about unless you race for long periods, or tow things up mountains in a gasoline vehicle you wouldn't usually see being used for such work lol. That's when you probably want to bump up oil viscosity to maintain oil pressure. Performance vehicles...

Winters can dip to below freezing in southern Arizona easily, and I like changing oil once a year with synthetic. 0w-XX oils are still good around here if you don't like cold start noise.

If we're talking about a drive that's just down the block, I would just change the oil every 3 months. Take it on a long drive once or twice a month to prevent carbon buildup.

My oil burner, a Toyota Tacoma 3.4, consumes maybe a few drops per OCI lol. With the advent of strict emissions regulations, it's funny how some modern vehicles will burn enough oil to ruin cat converters in just 100k miles. Makes you think twice which vehicles actually pollute less. 99.5% of...

Chevy Traverse/Buick Enclave/GMC Acadia 3.6 V6 oil changes make my head spin. Extremely cramped engine bays with oil filters crammed under the exhaust manifold, and that area you get your hand in is also surrounded in hot AC lines. No time to wait for it to cool down in a shop, especially during...

Chevy Traverse/Buick Enclave/GMC Acadia 3.6 V6 oil changes make my head spin. Extremely cramped engine bays with oil filters crammed under the exhaust manifold, and that area you get your hand in is also surrounded in hot AC lines. No time to wait for it to cool down in a shop, especially during...

I'd like to say to a certain degree that noisy cold starts are normal in many engines, especially in VVT overhead cam engines. There are so many oil passages the cold, thick oil will have to travel completely through. When temps dip below 30° F here in Tucson, my Toyota Tacoma 3.4 makes all...

The o-ring probably went bad, and oil slowly leaked out onto the base plate. The leaked oil catches all the dust and contaminants from the air, and heat from the engine sludged it up. I'd let the engine idle for an hour or 2 with the AC off after changing the oil, and change it out again.

Originally Posted by pschnahc Magnatecs claim to fame is those "clinging" esters. Others may use esters in a similar manner Clinging ester? Now it just sounds like Synerlec from Royal Purple lol.

OEM Kia/Hyundai spin on filters say Mann+Hummel Korea.

Originally Posted by kschachn Originally Posted by Loobit I've seen a video from it on Youtube on PQIA's channel. The stuff doesn't even mix with 5w-30 motor oil. Ordinary 5w-30 and SuperGreen stay separated. Lol sure, post the link we have to see this. My bad...

I've seen a video from it on Youtube on PQIA's channel. The stuff doesn't even mix with 5w-30 motor oil. Ordinary 5w-30 and SuperGreen stay separated.

I kinda want to try 0w-30 in a Hemi with MDS. I can readily buy the stuff at my shop haha. It should be fine since it may shear into a 5w-20, which is what these engines call for. I feel a bit more viscosity for high temperatures is necessary since the summers here in Arizona are brutal.