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That's curious about the settling time as I've never seen any instructions included with PTFE seals that state it needs to be done.

On typical rubber lipped seals, yes always lube. However some newer PTFE seals specifically state not to lube - at least to my eye they're pretty easy to spot, so even if they're not labeled you can tell what they are and install dry.

I have a 25hp Commercial Turf Briggs and run about 200 on a 70 degree day and 220-225 on a 90 degree day - this is measured with a thermometer in the oil after about an hour of run time. My ZT2800 hydros run somewhere around 180 after the same hour or so, but it's hard to get a good reading off...

Why was the engine replaced to begin with? Was #8 misfiring before this saga began or did it only start happening after engine replacement?

There will definitely be a lot going in inside the crankcase. If you pulled the dipstick while it was running then fully expect to get a face full of oil, even on a healthy engine. The crank, rods, pistons and cam will be throwing oil EVERYWHERE! Plus the pistons will displace a fair bit of the...

For valve clearance, somewhere around .005" for the intake and .006" - .008" for the exhaust should be okay. Side to side movement is somewhat normal, but excessive clearances, (like .012" or .015" and greater) will definitely cause the compression release to not work and make it a real pain...

Would you explain "minutes of torque" please? Are you referring to minutes as fractions of degrees or rotation or time? I haven't heard it phrased that way before.

Yeah Carlyle stuff has priced themselves out of my interest range. They're a good tool no doubt but some of their stuff is up there with the tool trucks.

Like mentioned, check the valve lash. The exhaust valve could be too loose or you could have had some problems with a pushrod bending or falling out of the rocker or damage to the rocker/pedestal. This would explain the popping and being very hard to pull over.

Probably the second ring.

After reading many threads here where those familiar with commercial airlines (ground crew, mechanics, pilots) have stated this would not be allowed or we must do this instead of this and so on at my airline, I've noticed a variety of ways of handling a given situation. Why will one company...

Fuel treatments aren't going to cure this issue. Buy a kit, pull the carb and clean it up.

The rings are cooked, get a set and gently hone the cylinder and you'll be much better off.

Does it have an aftermarket remote start or security system? 90% of the vehicles that I see with this problem have one installed.

They're in the next town over from me - they use Yukon products almost exclusively. Super popular company that has been doing good work. Nothing wrong with Yukon - they built a Ford 9.75" diff for me with a Yukon Duragrip limited slip. No issues whatsoever.

Well I'd say that you very likely found the issue.

How rapid and consistent is the popping? Do you have a spark tester and/or a leak down tester? Compressed air? Test the spark and see if it correlates to the miss/pop and/or fill the cylinder with compressed air while at TDC and see if it's leaking past a valve.

You sure? That's 3840 watts (8A at 480V) That should translate to 32 amps at 120v and 10ga is rated for 30 amps in a conduit (or at least used to be, not sure if the NEC has changed?) and presumably a fair bit more in free air.

Generac makes some low thd units like you're talking about.

Ohhhh... reading comprehension failure 😂