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Get a motor and replace it yourself...been doin this for 40 years..motor probably cost under 200.00 to procure..

I've had some come thru here with a skipped tooth on cam belt inside motor. While yer checkin valve clearance make sure the cam is still timed correctly. After the first one came thru here and did all of the above still was off. Checked cam timing and was out by one tooth.

Here is one for ya..about 35 years ago I had gotten a call from another small family heating business. The fella told me that he had installed a new oil furnace and the customer was upset that the lights dimmed whenever the furnace started. She wrote the AG a letter stating her displeasure...

My parents were 40..brought up during depression.. when I was born in 1960 so I learned how to live with little money. My dad would make from scratch something we needed instead of buying. He gas welded a coffee table, stereo rack and many other needed items. Built new house on the outside of...

Humans do what humans do..like any other animal. If one human can get over on another they will. If we let humans do what they do there will be folx who will get paid the same as was paid to many in the south and some in the north years ago. A civilized culture does what it can to make sure...

I wouldn't go too far down past the outside dew point if yer vapor barrier is on the inside wall.

I learned early on that anything I have put on the threads gets washed out since the threads are on the fuel side of the gasket.

I'm so old my plumbing wholesalers closed my accounts so now I have to pay cash.

Well..we seem to have loonies on both sides at the moment...all rights are being attacked...including the right to privacy.

While yer replacing the keeper might as well replace the spring as another poster recommended..

Ya all havent lived until ya do one of these with those zinc nuts that are 50years old. For me those tools usually just break off the ears. I keep a pencil torch and just melt those plastic nuts off now.

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Possible solution..instead of autoPilot..how about driving through ones cell phone..just throwing it out there..

Had several homes in the rural areas that had cpvc throughout. Also had indirect domestic water heater with no tempering valve that worked. The hot water over the years softened the cpvc and it had expanded so much no fittings would fit on the pipe without major surgery...maybe 10 years old..

In a spot where heat might be an issue would be a spot for Propress i guess...or where ya got to make a flyin connection..

The Propress system uses orings to seal. A few years down the road if the joints get moved around..as in a repair or loose hanger..the hope is the orings will still seal. Myself and the other plumbers around here figure one might be able to solder the leaking joint if it is clean enough. If...

Around here type M is for 30lbs heating. Not allowed for any domestic plumbing around here. There are about half of homes that have M installed for domestic use around here. Copper will develop an oxide..copper sulfate..that protects the copper from further corrosion. If the copper is...

I would stay away from the Zurn crimps. They tend to break near the waterheater. Those crimps are of thin material but are wide. Pex has a high expansion rate and will flex the crimp back and forth with temp change. The Watts crimps seem to not have this issue. ..as in the middle pic above...

Its worded like that to see if ya have been drinking..

Well that is the design. I don't use it nor recommend it. But they do work.. usually..