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All this has me wondering about whether or not I could just dose gasoline with somepure PEA and aachieve good results. I just checked and I can get it in bulk from one of our chemical supply companies, and doing the math it would cost about $0.18 a tank to add 5x as much as a bottle of SI-1...

Continental DWS have been getting very positive feedback, although personally I find that the sidewalls are too soft. The only All-Season tire I use at all are Pilot A/S, well also Pirelli P Zero Rosso, because they feel closer to a summer tire, have sturdy sidewalls and aggressive tread with...

They're very, very different cars in everything from design to purpose, so I am not going to compare the two fully as it would take pages upon pages. However, as some of you know/can tell, I spend a lot of time around BMW's, but I have driven quite a number of MC's and even raced one for three...

I understand that, and that's why I gave my other reasons. But generally, if a company has been completely solid in their other products, then I will be willing to try something new from them...

I have zero scoring on the aftermarket cams in my 328Ci after almost 30k miles, and the entire engine is built (full head build and machining w Ferrea valves and Ti accessory parts, flow benched, port matched, ported, extrude honed head... The entire bottom end upgraded except for the crank...

BMW's use D4 ATF, so how is it designed specifically for them?

Looks like you are due for a bit of repair work/maintenance... I have seen countless sludged BMW engines due to the horrendous way 95 percent of owners maintain them, but if you are losing that much oil (I don't care what the manual says, but a properly maintained and perfectly buttoned up...

It doesn't matter for most cars, but for engines like the F20C (S2K), S50B3x/S54B32/S65, that are run at extremely high speeds very frequently, there IS always an optimal rod ratio, and deviating from it too far will snap rods, release pistons into the atmosphere to take down satellites lol, and...

All cars in my sig have spent a lot of time on rolling roads, and my buddy whose shop it is can always immediately tell if the car is running on pure gas or is tainted w government subsidies...

Lugging an engine can very quickly press the ejector seat button for a piston or two courtesy of the immensely higher wear put on the journal rod bearings. My rule is, if I'm not driving, err, enthusiastically (which isn't on highways anyway), and going up a hill my TPS is between 66-75pct or...

I get them cheap free from one of the BMW aftermarket parts distributors who semi-sponsored one of my builds, and I originally was getting KN but asked for the AFE as I have heard good things, and they make the absolute best bar none performance air filter (ProDryS) for racing and extremely high...

Except it's lack of fuel that kills the pump, and if the fuel is gone, so is anything you mixed in it... You may buy yourself an entire quarter of a second, but it is very, very rare for a person to catch a failing fuel pump while driving, and save the pump, in fact I don't know anyone who has.

I have been using Seafoam for a while, as I (still, actually have) a Camry with the notorious sludge monster they call the 5SFE I4... '00 w 298k miles on it and it has never had to have more than regular maintenance (engine and gears are uuntouched aside from pkugs/VCG). I got it in the early...

Dell 27 and 30" are AH-IPS, not eIPS.

I use StopTech Street Performance pads for street use, with everything from OE brake systems to my ST Trophy 6/4 piston BBK and PFC BBK and I love them. They are the best performing Street pads I've used and are extremely well priced.

Meh, they're wear items. I also consider brakes and tires THE most critical parts of a car and there is absolutely no excuse for skimping on quality. I prefer slotted 2pc rotors w aggressive pad compounds, such as I use on my four wheel PFC BBK w j-hook DD rotors and, for street use, ST Street...

One reason why I love my 328 so much is the fact that it is a perfectly square engin, with 84mm stroke and bore (alt hough when I built up the motor, I went to 86.5mm bore w 84mm stroke for more displacement and less stress to help with running a very high pressure SC @ 10.8:1 SCR). In fact...

For street use, I tend to stick to around a 60:40 distilled to coolant mix with a bottle of WW, and track use is pure water w two bottles of WW. Never had a single issue, but the least modified car still has a top notch CR rad + Stewart pump + pulleys + SPAL fan + Samco hoses, so I don't know...

60:40 distilled to coolant plus a bottle of Water Wetter is what I use in all of my Bimmers, except my track car which is just distilled and two bottles of WW (Zionsville rad plus other cooling system mods = nearly 1.8x the capacity of stock).

How would RL D4 ATF fit? I use it for my street Bimmers, occasionally in a 3:1 ratio w MTL, but for my race cars I use the MTL due to the thicker viscosity and the extended high temp use and lack of a need for cold performance.