When I changed a steering rack on a 12 Traverse (Lambda) it had a tag hanging on the new rack that said to use Dex VI. It was a GM part. As I was at a Chrysler garage I used ATF +4. Worked great, still no problems. This was about a year ago.
"One of the conclusions of Williamson et al is worthy of recording, namely "for all the oils tested there was always a lubricant film present between the cam and follower surfaces". The oils had a dynamic viscosity variation from 5 to 23 mPa.s at 100C."
Maybe it's time I stop defaulting to...
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
I'd stay with your regular PYB and AC/Delco or Wix.
I have a Chevy Lumina with the 3.1 and that combination has worked fine through 127,000 miles.
I'd recommend you change the coolant ASAP.
Flush and get the Dex-cool out of the engine.
I lost a intake manifold...
For a street driven car I haven't experienced any long-term negative consequences. Other Miata drivers tell me not to go racing with Synchromesh fluid in it and, having driven it very vigorously a few times, I would agree. When you really beat the snot out of it the shifts get a bit notchy. With...
Virtually any dedicated MTL should improve shifting. I've had awesome experience with the GM/Chrysler/Pennzoil Synchromesh fluid. It's roughly a 5W-30 in viscosity, so I think it would do very well for you. Also widely available and inexpensive.
I first tried it in my Miata...will never go back...
Compressor cycling is controlled by evaporator temperature, assuming all other parts of the system are working properly. If it's abnormally hot and the evaporator never gets cold enough to trip the compressor cut-out it will just keep running.
If you feel like putting in some effort, make sure...
+1 for A3 B3/B4. I ran M1 0W-40 in my B6294S that I had in my 2000 S80 with no complaints. IIRC Volvo speced an A1/B1 for normal use and A3/B3 for severe use with that engine which (except for the turbo) is basically the same as yours. GC or T6 would be great options too.
If it hasn't been...
Since you say you don't want all the fancy stuff, I'll assume you have the RES radio (most Chrysler radios have a 3 letter code in the corner of the faceplate up until the absolute newest stuff).
Mopar has an add-on Bluetooth/UConnect kit...
Side note: Despite us having (essentially) the same engine, it makes me chuckle how, between 1989 and 1996, Mazda submitted to the CAFE overlords. The oil chart in my manual says nothing more than 10W-30 unless it's below freezing, then only 5W30.
xW-40 oils have usually shown to shed less iron in the NA Miata motors. I run 0W-40 Mobil 1 in my 96 with 8000 mile OCI. Good luck so far (60k miles under my ownership) and it's quieted down the HLAs quite a bit. I'm not super easy on it either...I don't race it any more but it sees 4000 RPM on...
Keep driving it for awhile. If it stays at -7% or moves closer to zero, don't worry about it. If you start closing in on -10% then I'd do something about it.
My 94 Jaguar is chock full of Lucas electronics, Girling brakes, Smiths instrumentation, Champion plugs, Marelli ignition, and a couple GM assemblies. Today I bet everything they make is full of Bosch, Siemens, and Delphi products.
Side note - when changing the filters, be sure to change the sealing ring that holds the pan filter in. RFEs are infamous for dropping the filter out if you dont.