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New Life , now known as FS

Maybe they blend their oils a bit thicler than other brands, but considering the base oil and add pack, definitely not worth 86$ for 5L that is crazy, almost 300V money.

Found while browsing the Kraut oil geek forum aka oil-club.de Opel Zafira 1.9 Diesel, Remapped , last oil change on December 4th 2019! Apparently OP plans to go even longer, 40 or 50k kms next , 24 or 30k miles. Original thread ...

Here in Europe they tend to be thicker than that, most are above 14 for sure.

Like i said about Motul, most of their range are fairly mundane oils , not bad but not special either, but their Synthoil range is worth it being PAO / Ester based, and unlike Motul 300V they are ok to run for extended intervals.

A really good European 5W-40 is LM Synthoil, it's PAO and Ester based, and in Europe it can in fact be found rebottled in another brand called Meguin Superleichtlauf 5W-40, which is significantly cheaper, 14.7cst @100c , nice strong additive package with plenty of Zddp etc, very good oil that...

Yeah their XCess and XClean are ok, but not significantly better than other brands with the same specs.

Oh yes, Motul made a big deal of their old Motul Sport Ester , when in reality it didn't have that much. They also got fined in Germany some years ago for selling some Group 3 oils as Vollsyntetisch in Germany. Their 300V line is the good stuff, the rest of their oils are not really anything...

Most A3/B4 5W-40s except for some oddballs like SHU are between about 14.5-14.8 cst , don't know what's available where you live.

M1 0w40

I'm not sure how the weather might matter to how the filter media holds up??

Not to deviate from the topic, but there is some research that says it's actually beneficial to have some old oil left in there, as it helps to "activate" the additive package of the new oil , mainly the AW additives, as the new oil basically washes off the tribofilms left by the previous oil...

But nowaday's oil is much better, i myself have a 51 year old engine, never bewn rebuilt just the heads, knocking on 240k miles now, cross hatching still present in the cylinders, British Ford Essex 3.0 V6, Weber 38/38 carb. Run on mostly 20W-50 conventional or 10W-40 most of its life.

Yes that is correct, carbed engines also suffer from it especially on cold start, then with the adoption of multipoint port fuel injection that problem was for the most part eliminated. Now with GDi engines, yeah they may make more power and be more efficient, but i don't want one, the issues...

I prefer CBD oil. Makes me sleep like a baby

God, does Valvoline US release a new oil every other week? Their product line here in Europe is much simpler and streamlined. All Climate Maxlife Synpower VR1 Premium Blue And i believe two other mixed fleet oils, that's it.

Never had and probably won't have a car newer than 1999 so... couldn't care less.

Anecdotal evidence, but i've ran full saps oils on engines that burned oil , for years without a cat failing, cars of my own and others that i maintained for a few elderly neighbors and some friends.

I would definitely start a car every once in a while in storage, but if you do start it you definitely should allow it to warm up , starting it and shutting it off 2 minutes later is just about the worst thing to do as many people do that.

Well yes, in that case the higher the TBN the better, so HDEOs and full saps A3/B4 Euro oils