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I visited California and even the laundry detergent was in locked cabinets. There were so many locked items there was no point in shopping there (I went to Costco instead) Our local Walmart in Michigan has nothing locked up excepting the drugs behind the pharmacy counter, has mostly manned...

I stopped buying PUP with SOPUS stopped honoring their rebates. Went back to M1 who has has consistently paid. They even replaced a few leaky jugs of M1EP at no charge!

I used Mobil 1 5w-30 in my 1987 Ford Aerostar. After 160K , just about everything had broken at some point , but M1 kept the engine working perfectly. I'd bought an unlimited mileage (!) extended warranty, and Ford paid out close to the value of the van in repairs.

I do not want California to impose its will on the entire country. This will help keep vehicles affordable for all Americans. Hopefully they will do the same for gas and reduce the number of blends required (and therefore improve refinery efficiency). The average price of a car is approaching...

All of the name brands cost about the same. Use a HM 0w-20, like M1 EP HM.

I change the oil on my Subaru PI engine every 13-15K. UOA still shows plenty of life. Using M1EP and a Fram endurance filter. When I had a Honda V6, I changed at 2x the OLM (12-14K). For the DI engines we change the oil at 6K.

We have 365AW on one car and CC2s. The CC2s are exceptional because they do everything well and wear very well. We will probably replace the 365AW tires with Weatherready2's or CC3's when they come out.

We were using OG Ultras and changed to M1 and then to Endurance. I am done switching since the alternatives aren't any better and the OEM for our cars (Subaru) is the same price and has an inferior media.

That pricing is insane.

On our Honda and Subaru NA PI engines we changed the oil every 13-15K. I used several varieties of extended life oil and extended life filters (Mobil 1, Fram Ultra). These days I just go to Wal-Mart and get M1 Ep 0w-20 and a Fram Endurance filter. With the Honda I just did 2x the OLM (reset...

I'd just go to Walmart and get Mobil 1 Truck & SUV . It's currently on sale for CAD35 + HST for a 5L jug.

We have the General 365AW on one Outback and Michelin CC2 on the other. The CC2 is superior in every way - handling, dry, rain, moderate snow, ice slush. etc. The 365AW might have a slight edge in very deep snow, which is pretty rare in SE Michigan. CC2's are also a few hundred more $ per set...

They became rich by not wasting money.

I don't think it's worth the extra cost for HPL over Mobil1 EP, but that's me. If it makes you happy, do it. Both are excellent products and my UOAs on on M1EP at 12-14K have been very good. I might think about it with a higher performance engine.

We are pretty happy with out 365AWs, we had RT43s before that. They are very similar tires overall. If you can afford it I'd spring for the CC2 which last a lot longer, and cost the same or less on a per-mile basis. The CC2's handle better in wet conditions and brake better than the 365AWs.

We look for US (or Canadian) made tires. Most of the better ones are made domestically. That's one place I won't skimp.

Nokian R5 is the top rated winter tire in Consumer Reports testing. Despite that, we selected Michelin X-Ice Snow because of the longer life, and they are almost rated as good as the R5s We also have CC2s for 3 season use on our '13 Outback. We live in Northern Michigan with gently rolling...

It appears that the Evolution Winter are studable tires, so they are going to perform a lot better on ice then regular non-studable winter tires. We have a set of Michelin X-Ice snow which work very well on our Subaru. Studded ties are not permitted in Michigan.

Xice Snow and WS90 are rated just slightly better than the VC7 in Consumer Reports. Xice Snow treadware compound may last a little longer. All are great tires, just get whatever works for you. We have Xice Snows and XC2s on our Outback, and switch a later in the fall and earlier in the spring...

Great report! Makes me want to buy a Mazda :)