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Interesting , but since it decreases with rpm, would that not imply perhaps a diode in alternator?

I was thinking that since it was increasing or decreasing with rpm it must be tied to the alternator. Also on a separate issue I get a electric buzzing noise only when hvac on defrost setting through car speakers up and down with rpm, although I believe that’s from no Freon in the ac lines.

2014 Taurus sel Only when it is cold, upon first start for 30 seconds the key ignition cylinder buzzes and the electrical buzz sound increases or decreases with rpm. Thoughts?

Well it was not the fuel pump. I am convinced either the ecu needs an update from that old tsb or it has an internal fault. It must have something to do once the ecu goes to sleep after like 4 min. I can confirm the injectors are not pulsing for that first 5 turns.

That’s right I got the full assembly.

I ordered a pump because at this point all that’s left is that and ecu. Will provide update prob next week.

What is this black wire for under dash coming out of big wireharness? It’s cut, you will have to zoom to see it. There is no wire above to connect to so what up with that. For location in vehicle it’s right beside fuse box on driver side feet. For a tech to check ground?

There was a tsb for updating the ecu however my ecu vin does not match the ones recalled, if that is what what you were referring to. I noticed upon initial cold start there was a bit of a knock coming from engine that lasted 10 seconds. Perhaps a sign of not getting enough gas, who knows might...

Ignition coils did not fix the problem. Throttle body does not have a iac for previous commenter.

When I get the new coils I will let u know if it worked, should be Tuesday. Had the issue since I got the car. Alternator and starter are all gd.

I checked a forum where he tested the stock secondary windings off a vibe which were good so I’m assuming my reading is translated 5700 ohms for the old ones and 30000 ohms for the new one. The guy that tested his old working ones were 24000 ohms.

Ignore that reading above, primary windings are within spec but secondary winding on all the old ones is 5.7 ohms and the new one is 30. Not sure what the specs are for that.

I ordered a new coil and for far right pin I get 4 on the new one and all the old ones I get 35 ish? All other pins show similar.

Worth a try, but I will have to test them when they are heat soaked as the issue only happens after car sits 5-10 min only.

Would it not show up on the misfire monitor if it was a ignition coil?

Throttle is cleaned and I believe in this vehicle pump only primes when engine is cranking not in the on position. I did confirm there was pretty of pressure so there is no leak down. I’m leaning towards a old tsb that was never checked and still can’t rule out the fuel pump at this point

Correct me if I’m wrong but a knock sensor has nothing to do with starting a vehicle

Cranks normally, and battery and alternator are good.

It starts normally any other time, only after 5-15 min of sitting only does it give me this issue. Brand new injectors.

So does this suggest that I have no injector pulse? TPS sensor is all good, also my stft at idle is plus 6 and -10 Ltft.