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It should definitely be around 40. LOP at idle when hot also indicates issues, maybe with loose bearings, bearing wear. Still it can run for years like that, until it doesn't.

I used to overfill my 1995 SL2 Saturn oil burner. Never affected anything. Anywhere from 1/2 to 1 quart, but mostly 1 quart. That way I felt less need to add more oil. I paid $700 for it from a guy in NJ many years ago, maybe 2002 with 80,000 miles. I sold it 5 years ago for $800. It ran great...

I kind a think they won't let typical people drive to aggressively. If you are police, government, army, then yes. Car knows no one around you, should be allowed to floor it, but not past the speed limit! AI goals would be to stop aggressive driving...

I would have not even started the thread and just used those cams, as long as they still had the correct lift profile. I needed to drill and grind an oil passage in a rare bird old 1970 IH392 flat tappet non hydraulic camshaft, and it was tough to drill. Grinding was no problem. Those cams can...

Where we live, rare for them to brine the roads, but they will, and I avoid driving if I can. Where I have my boat, very rarely super high tides flood the road 6" deep in salt water. I have driven through such water 4 time in 4 years. I go slow. I drive a high up Ram 4 door 3500 dually long...

What advantage-disadvantage versus those products? Use what is working for you?

Dave is blaming the burnt bearings in these motors on this large oil flow back to the pan, emptying out the oil pump and oil galleries. Then Dave fixes it by using the one way valve in the suction tube. I imagine this could be a bigger problem when oil is super thick and cold in the winter...

I could scrub off all the disintegrating outer rubber. Then use SikaFlex 291 and coat on new rubber layers. And that will strengthen the hose. If it is too weak, the rubber bellows might be setting up a resonance effect, just like a horn.

Another hum thread on a Ford. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/976335-loud-humming-coming-from-air-intake-3.html Could it be the rubber hose bellows is worn and weak? The outside of this is decayed, gets your fingers black, rubber is disitegrating.

I originally thought the noise was a failing electric cooling fan. Well, to replace that, the radiator has to come out the bottom. The fan is bolted to radiator AC condenser can be unbolted from radiator and stay in there, flops around loose, you have to tie it up. I put on a new fan, and it did...

It is a very smooth running engine, idle is like you don't even know it is running.

Took a video of it humming. You can hear the horn like sound. Then at video end, I open air box and it get very loud, then ends after a few seconds. I can 50 feet away hear this horn sound. https://photos.app.goo.gl/UBz63BkxMrvkPDmv9 At 25 seconds is the new IAC valve, been on a few weeks.

Now a month ago, wife was driving and car was accelerating by itself. She was parked, started, put into gear, engine revved and she hit a tree. Another time I was in car and engine bucked for 10 seconds like speeding up and slowing down fast. I thought maybe the IAC valve was sticking-bad, so...

I thought about it. But as it was vibrating, I opened the air box and removed filter and it kept vibrating as I held the cover lifted up. Filter looks clean

We have had the car in the family for 15 years, when my FIL died, wife got the car. It never did this till a few months ago. It idles fine. Maybe I should pull off the intake and or throttle body and clean them.

I put my hand on the airbox when it makes this horn like sound and it is vibrating hard. I found some info pointing to an IAC and throttle body dirty issue. Our car is a 1998 Ford Contour with 2.5L V6 engine. It will randomly start this loud humming horn noise, and it may go away when revving...

Yeah, raw water side gets calcium scale buildup, which acid eats. I dumped out the vinegar, and put in gasoline, E10, which is definitely fully dissolving this stuff. I scraped some of the crud and put it in some gas and it sort of looks like stop leak. in a day, I will dump the gas and flush...

And found another product which has good reviews https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ1FB28/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACCN4F2I5XM2M&psc=1 Nothing worked for this guy till he used that stuff. And I think you can simply use it as a soak.

Guys, I am trying white vinegar. Got couple gallons. I used rubber hoses to close off the openings. After an hour it is slowly dissolving. I put my finger inside the fill, scraped at it and it is loosening up, turning into a red brown dirt. It may be engine block rust mixed with something...

https://flushingservices.com/blog/Boat-Heat-Exchanger Found this, which claims don't use acid cleaners. Don't take to a radiator shop. Claim is acid will ruin it. I was not planning on anything except a DIY job It is copper nickel tubing and copper shell is thick. It is much thicker than a car...