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https://hfpricetracker.com/tools/32879

These are filled with Helium, so they're very light.

Sure looks like a valve spring tester to me.

Sometimes you just need torque that a cordless can't provide, or can't provide for long. A couple examples that come to mind are running a 1" Forstner bit through a bunch of studs for running Romex, or priming the oiling system on a big block Chevy engine through the distributor hole.

The last time I got a new phone, I read things consistent with what D60 had stated. I almost never leave mine charging overnight. The advice I saw was to charge it up to 80% and let it discharge to 20%, for longest battery life.

5/16" for carburetor bowl screws and hose clamps. Probably the only one I use, but it's not all that rare. I realize most aren't changing jets on automotive carburetors on a regular basis. You also need to keep a spray can cap handy to catch the fuel after removing the first bottom screw.

I understand what you're saying, but I've never adjusted output on an impact wrench before. Just release the trigger as soon as the nut tightens and the hammering starts. You'll be short of the target, but should be within a turn.

The best jobs are those that require a tool purchase! I do try to be reasonable on cost/quality. I don't know that I own anything tool-wise that is "best in class". As much as I enjoy accumulating tools, I wouldn't consider it collecting.

Is it that hard to search eBay when the item number is given? Snap-On price is $625. eBay has several listings in the $325-350 range.

In drag racing, you find what works best on your car, with your gauge, and you only use your same gauge. Someone else's gauge will likely vary by 1/2 psi or more. That kind of variance is no problem on a daily passenger car but a big deal when tuning for high horsepower with about 5 psi in the...

This one (1200 lb/ft) will be on sale for $95 from Black Friday through Monday, down from $129.

You want a link to the jokes being told around the shop?

I'm just a home gamer but I've kept my stuff all-metal. I know I can always get those back to 'factory clean' with brake cleaner on a shop towel. I don't use cheater bars often at all, but those will fit better over an all-metal handle and won't gouge it up.

I got the Milwaukee as a cheap add-on when buying another M12 tool. I've used it more than I thought I would, and it's been handy to have as a cordless. It's pretty loud and vibrates a lot if you crank the speed up, but I don't know how that would compare to other brands/models.

It's a valid pedantic argument to state that current SAE standards use metric measurements, so saying "SAE" to mean "not metric" is inaccurate. But, we all know what it means and I really can't recall tools being differentiated by any other terms.

To go back to your given examples, "SAE" is a common term to refer to fractional hardware and tools. Nobody is selling "break pads" by that spelling. It's not an accepted term, no matter how many dopes have used the wrong word.

Industry terms/nomenclature and bad spelling/grammar are completely separate topics.

Napa has it for $55.99 with free shipping. I think you can be fairly confident they won't rip you off on it. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTOJ5249XL

Business ownership is a different beast altogether. The “lawn techs” just show up to work and use equipment owned by the lawn service.

As D60 was saying, whether or not the item is genuine Craftsman, you could surely make the argument that you did not receive the item that was pictured in the listing.