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I'm about to do the same job on an FX50. Aside from The Critic's previous post, there isn't really much DIY info on these transmissions. Many people seem to discuss it and then don't do it. Luckily (maybe), the one I bought had it done at the dealer at 30K. I have a receipt for it, but it...

Yes, the reality is that they can snap the throttle open electronically almost instantly. Some drive by wire systems feel like a cable. Others ... don't. This is all engineered in for some reason. I recently drove a different car with the opposite problem - a tiny bit of accelerator pedal motion...

That's an interesting idea. I don't know that I have ever seen one in the wild.

What's unfortunate is that the high voltage pack doesn't automatically disconnect after some period of inactivity, or below some charge level. If they are Lithium based cells, they can be permanently, and dangerously, damaged by being over-discharged (which they can do to themselves by sitting...

Not much of a milestone, but I just bought the car sight unseen and drove it over 4K miles to get it home with a full load of stuff in the back. I passed 100K somewhere in TN. Part of the trip was from San Francisco to Chicago, so I got desert, mountain passes, city traffic, and temperatures...

The next question becomes, is it worth the risk of using a spring compressor to make a $1,000 car better for the next guy? Unless you are experienced and comfortable with spring compressors. I have been using them for years and still try to avoid 'em when possible.

I'm a bit biased, and I know this is not staying in line with the German desire, but if you could find a clean Infiniti 05+ G35/G37 6MT that hasn't been owned by 5 kids, they are decently fun cars that are very reliable if taken care of, and they are also very comfortable to sit in for hours a...

Originally Posted by CBR.worm I would do both. Even if you can't tell the other side isn't great, it will probably feel better with both sides refreshed, and it will feel better to anyone who test drives it. When I posted this, I missed the $1,000 car part. It's hard to justify spending much...

Hmmm. That's interesting. I've used leather conditioner on all of my interior surfaces aside from my dash with good results. It never occurred to me to try it on my dash. I don't even know what it's made of - some type of rubber, I guess?

I've not had any stellar dealership experiences, but Audi and Infiniti up here are pretty decent both sales and service wise. A friend was a service writer at a Hyundai dealer when Genesis was still sold through Hyundai, they tried to excel at customer service, but you were still going in and...

Yeah, I use the dashguard as well. Mine have never blistered or gotten sticky, they just developed cracks around the air vents and a couple other spots. And they used to be soft, now they are not soft. I just want to make the 2012, which looks perfect, stay perfect as long as possible. If that...

Originally Posted by NoNameJoe To your question is there anything safe to use on that generation of soft vinyl dash? I don't know how anyone can answer that, the dashboard is clearly defective since it's a widespread problem, trying to find a cleaner that works for defective dashboards is not...

The worst single incident was when I accidentally swapped rod caps on two adjoining rods - ended up spinning a bearing about 200 miles from home. Limped it back and had to replace the crank and those two rods. I guess the second one would have been when I had a fram oil filter blow off my bike...

I replaced mine with OEM valve covers, I figured it wasn't worth the risk of having to do it again. If the car is in good shape and you plan to keep it, I wouldn't skimp unless you are completely comfortable overcoming the potential drawbacks of aftermarket. As for the plenum gasket, you need...

It used to be normal for oil pressure to bounce at idle, but the newer vehicles don't have a real pressure gauge, so, I don't know. Does the pressure light flicker at idle too?

Is it only when it is cold? Do the revs flare between 1st and 2nd or does it just shift hard. Has it always been that way?

I drain and refill with OEM coolant at the specified miles. My cars require the first change at 100K (or 6 years?) and 50K thereafter. It's cheap and easy, as long as you can bleed it successfully and don't break anything in the process.

I would do both. Even if you can't tell the other side isn't great, it will probably feel better with both sides refreshed, and it will feel better to anyone who test drives it.

Either my '00 Tundra or my current G35. Neither required much. The G35 is older, so it has needed valve cover gaskets, and a MAF, and I had Trav clean the fuel injectors while it was apart - it currently needs the front suspension to be de-clunked. The Tundra needed spider gears and a fan...

I just did a similar trip from Seattle down through Northern CA, back up to and across I-80 through SLC and Omaha, then up to chicago, and then down to Orlando for Universal Studios. One way it was ~4.5K miles. I passed 100K somewhere east of the desert. It was an awesome trip - 63 hours...