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One more thing to check.....Dragging brake. Run the car down the freeway, then pull off and check for a hot wheel. Using an infrared temp gun would make it easier.

You should drive it more. I would be happy to help put some miles on it for you, if you lived close. I have never owned a vehicle that I put so few miles on, that it didn't need a 6 month OCI. In short.......You are doing it wrong!

Most of them have a large rubber body plug, so you can pull the plug and rinse away. If not, I guess I would use a wet/dry vacuum. This answer assumes it is the road salt you want to get rinsed out.

I have an '02RT, since new. I have always used 15W/50 Mobil 1. Part of the attraction is the ZDDP levels in this grade of oil, and that BMW recommended XXW/50. This is an air/oil cooled engine, not water cooled, and oil recommendations should account for this That said, these engines do not...

Tires have improved immensely in their ability to hold pressure, over my lifetime. 30 years ago, a weekly check of pressure would always require that all the tires be topped up. Now, I only deal with pressure when the tires get rotated.....And then, more because the front and rear pressures...

Oil cannot produce horsepower. Too thick an oil will limit output by increasing frictional losses. And too thin of an oil can allow loss of pressure past the rings. But....With any suitable oil in the crankcase, for any reasonable OCI, the difference in actual engine output would not be more...

Originally Posted By: CT8 The biggest fail in when the car overheats. Or.....When the clutch comes apart, and the fan enters the radiator. Most of them seem to drive the fan continuously, when they fail.

The additives are put in, as ordered for each delivery point. The base gas is all out of the same tank at the same refinery.

EFI vehicle recycle substantially more fuel than they burn. A few miles of that agitation in the tank will mix anything up. This also accounts for why FI vehicles are able to deal with striating ethanol fuels so well.

I changed the fan clutch on my old trusty 4runner last year. Best price for an OEM Aisin unit was from Amazon. Around $60, if memory serves. The original lasted 245k miles, so I didn't got for a cheaper alternative. I recovered a full 1mpg. The new clutch should pay for itself, sometime in the...

I would try changing the fluid before I took the thing apart. If it doesn't have a drain and fill plug, there still has to be a way to service it. If you want to do the cheap fluid thing, just make sure you use GL4 rather than GL5. If you want to go premium, put in Redline MT90. I have fixed...

Originally Posted By: NormanBuntz Sounds like another oil cooler should be in your future. Given the temperatures involved, this is the expedient route to take. Temps in the 90C range are about ideal, anyway. Best guess for the source of the racket is a chain tensioner that has some leak by...

Originally Posted By: Excel like this I found last week What did you find behind that spontaneous miscarriage? Inquiring minds want to know......

I never gave it any credence, in spite of a sales talk from my BIL. I do have a anecdotal tale, though. My '00 4runner, when it had 240k miles on it, started throwing a code that the cat was no longer working within parameters. I tried a few things, none of which kept the CEL off for very long...

In the end, the risk of extra wear from too frequent oil changes is moot, since engines seldom wear out before the rest of the vehicle. Changing the oil too infrequently, however, can allow failure of some critical parts, not necessarily from wear, but from sludging/sticking, long before the...

Originally Posted By: rooflessVW Use whatever pressure is listed in the door jamb. I would add, use no less than what is on the door jam, and up to 10% over. Also, elevation makes a difference. My tire store is in town, 2000' lower. That is good for being about 2 PSI low, when I check at home.

What about additives? I try not to go over .04 BAL with the alcohol, but it does seem to get things spun up, for awhile.

Just to clarify, I believe that was the yellow "Oil level" light, not the red oil pressure light. No damage done.

One answer is to just pump the piston out by applying the brakes. Once you have it out, you can see what sort of corrosion might be the issue, and if you can address it without a replacement caliper. My guess is that a new/rebuilt is going to be your most efficient method to get back on the road.

This is pretty powerful evidence that the speed trap's purpose is revenue generation, and has not a thing to do with "Safety".