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I have had good success adding 1/2 gallon of Acetone to a 1/4 tank of fuel. Done it 3 times on my 2000 4Runner with 3-4 years between getting a CEL. Drive it like you stole it, and I actually think it runs better with that bit of solvent in there.

Blend doors tend to stick in the middle of their travel.

If it is a lifter issue, the motor needs a complete tear down and complete cleaning, rebuild. Metal metal everywhere. I wouldn’t be in a hurry if it were mine. Nothing to “Save”. And I would not want the dealer to try.

Does the wind still blow through your house if you close the door? A closed blend door will block air flow.

It depends on the installation. My Sprinter, I have drained it through the Valvomax then removed the drain valve and didn’t get any more oil out. My Subaru was the same after I notched the end of the threads.

If some is good, more is better and too much is just right. It is the American way.

Techron. Nuff said.

I would bet the thermostat has a fairly large bypass hole by design. So a radiator blocking strategy might be a good solution.

Maybe you need a thermostat.

The cranking slows noticeably but it starts so easily that I just throw it on the charger when I notice. It is generally in the 60% charge range when I notice. Only happens in the 10-20s so global warming will make it a non issue in a few years.

I have a 2000 4Runner since 2003. It has had both varieties of batteries without issues. However in the Winter here I charge the battery to full 2-3 times through the season, if I am only using it locally (Trips under10 miles). I have always thought the battery doesn’t get adequate bulk...

Really? I only have the one, and the oddity was it was the year they skipped the magnet. Plug was clean and smooth.

That almost looks like glue holding a magnet let go. Does not appear to be lube related.

I had that happen when a guy approached me at the gas station with an empty gas can, wanting $5 for gas. I had the spigot in my hand and I told him to set the can down and I would fill it on my purchase. He said no thanks and walked away. Money is what many of them want. Nothing else.

The instructions for new R&P is drive for 15 minutes at up to 50 mph then let it cool for 30 minutes. Do that 3 times increasing speed to 65 mph. Then change fluid at 200 miles. Lots of heat at friction in those first few miles.

It is an estimate of life remaining. Theoretically it should last almost twice as long as it has so far. Personally I pay attention to the percentage that the CA or CCA is of what it was originally. At 75%, I replace. In round numbers if a 1000 CCA battery tests at 750, it is likely to fail...

The original fluid was green maybe with a bluish tinge. Yeah the color was still obvious when drained at about 40k. The Valvoline fluid is a non descript tan color like undyed motor oil, but thicker. The Valvoline smells very similar to the OEM fluid. Red fluid would concern me as well. A...

That might work if there was some present.

Izzat like a Wuhan War Whistle?

Yeahbutt turbochargers….