The Dex/Merc will thin out much faster than the VI, so you need to keep it refreshed. Change all the disgusting fluid now through a cooler line. Then a drain/fill every so often.
"It works pretty much perfectly when cold, but often won't lock at all if the transmission is hot".
This seems to point to the low viscosity fluid. Try using a fluid that meets the spec and/or add another cooler.
Good advice above but you seem a little nervous about this. I suggest to just drain, catch and measure whatever you can get out the radiator. Then add 1/2 concentrate 1/2 water back. Do it again every 18 months or so and be ahead of 95% of all cars. G-05 is on sale right now...
Filter from my 97 Lincoln 4.6 4v. 10K, 5K of Total 5w-30 twice. Last 3 qts of Total and one gallon of Delo 5w40 went back with a Fram FS2.
Filter looked good. It was a transition filter. It still had the wire but no. bypass seal or pink media.
These storage posts always make me smile reading the responses. I was overseas for about 13 years total with a 3 year and a 5 year straight. Each time when I got back after charging and reconnecting the batteries I just fired them up. Drive it an hour and change the oil. 15w-40 is a solid choice...
Romp on it 20 minutes or so each day to get it hot. Check the dipstick and overflow each morning. It is probably fine. The misfiring should show up on a cold start if it is leaking into the cylinders.
Maybe I missed it but was any work done disturbing the cooling system when replacing the power steering pump? Why do you keep taking off the radiator cap? It will suck what it needs from the over flow each heat cycle. Just let it be and check the overflow each morning stone cold. After a couple...
The "here" link does not work but if you submit a claim there is a search block of retailers. Advance, Autozone, Walmart store and online are there to choose from. I just uploaded a random pic to get to next page to search.
https://rewards.quakerstate.com/new
The oil warning light requires real troubleshooting. Take the sensor off and run the engine for a second or so then clean your mess and put a gauge on it. This will clear any debris from the valve adjustment job that may be in the sensor port.
If the gauge shows single digits at idle, use that...
That makes it a lot simpler then. If it was my car and it still ran fine with no codes I would change the oil and forget about it.
The injectors should be easily visible. Get a good light and check them for any bulging or cracks first. To test the injectors you will need a decent scanner and a...