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Some photos from the repair. Thank you to all for the input/help.

Replaced condenser, wasn't too bad a job. Front bumper had to come off, horn, hood latch and a couple other small bits. The factory service manual would have you pulling radiator fans & stuff on the other side, but I didn't see the point. The fan shroud sort of blocks the condenser from...

Rear didn't affect it much. Neither the front or rear would work when refrigerant was low, rear worked fine with the front when I added 16oz refrigerant (along with dye). System capacity is around 39oz IIRC, had to convert it from grams. New condenser arrives Friday, should get it back in...

Quick update: After introducing some refrigerant and dye to the system, it started cooling again. A failed condenser revealed itself very quickly under UV light. It's leaking at the very bottom where the dryer tank attaches to the condenser (both are integrated) on the driver's side of it...

I'm suspicious of a low charge. I know for sure that the low side schraeder valve is leaking. There's an audible hiss and some oil bubbling as soon as I take the cap off. I don't know if that's the source of the leak-- I assume the cap is there as a failsafe to keep it sealed, but I could be...

I want to correct myself in the above post--- 100 PSI static pressure (low / high) is normal for R134A at the temperature & humidity we had yesterday. I looked up a chart and it's spot on. What has me concerned is how quickly the high/low levels equalize after shutting the vehicle down...

I agree with that but I think there's more going on here. I shouldn't be seeing anywhere near 100+ psi static pressure on the low side and while I'm no expert, the high side should not be bleeding off into the low side when the compressor shuts off, correct me if I'm wrong.

Ambient temp was about 90F when I was doing my testing. There's a separate expansion valve for each evaporator on this vehicle.

Wife's 2015 Kia Sedona minvan A/C stopped working, naturally it's required to fail this time of year right before a family trip in July. Hooked gauges up and this is what I've observed: A) Tested low side by itself, static pressure after sitting many hours-- it read 110 PSI, way above what it...

With the new pump, this is a mean machine. I have a lot of square footage to cover, completely refinishing our wraparound deck and balcony. Strip as much paint as I can, clean everything good and repaint. I'm replacing any suspect wood while I'm there. I found the spinning jet nozzle to be...

Good to know, sad that they use those crap AAA pumps. I'm going to take it apart for science, I bet it's full of plastic parts. I finally found the appropriate fitting to convert new pump quick connect to what I now know is an M22 fitting w/ 14mm bore (standard residential pressure washer hose...

Can any of you help with this dilemma? The new pump comes with a quick connect fitting. The hose/wand I have has the ordinary (I presume residential) fitting. I can't find anything that will convert one to the other. I tried Amazon, all they have are adapters that connect the quick connect...

A lot like the early Mazda Tribute / Ford Escape brake lines (early 00's) that would spontaneously break at high-ish mileage/age. I'd rather a transmission line go south :)

I bought this unit on a whim: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085FTK7G6 Had the best price (above the cheap Chinese cheapos) and reviews. Box says made in Canada but I see nothing on the pump housing itself. Judging by the size versus the OEM one, there's probably some meatier bits inside, at...

You bet. I reminded our maintenance guy at least a time or two that all it needed was a new pump; fell on deaf ears. It took a few years but as soon as worked slowed down and guys were cleaning out old storage spaces, I knew it was time.

Work was throwing out a Dewalt pressure washer with a Honda GX200 engine on it. I remember them buying it in 2017, I bet it had about 15 hours on it before the pump went bad. It got shelved when they bought another one and has been collecting dust since. While doing some spring cleaning this...

This is on my to do list, run 75' of CAT5 to my shop. Presently I'm using a powerline adapter; the shop electrical panel is run to the house panel, but I only get about 30Mbps out of a possible 1Gbps. Definitely use direct burial rated wire.

Thanks, it does make sense. I've had a surprise experience where 4WD didn't work because of vacuum lines, a 2000 Kia Sportage. Didn't leave me stranded but very close. That model had manual Warn hubs available (inexpensive) that I wasted no time installing. I have to give Ford some credit, I...

They seem to have it backwards though, most non-Fords I'm familiar with operate by supplying vacuum to engage the hubs. The downside to that approach is if something goes wrong, you don't know it until you need 4WD and it doesn't work. Some engineer at Ford probably had a bright idea in that...

99% sure this thing is fixed while saving a co-worker $120 on a power steering pump plus labor, hopefully he can return the PS pump without getting hosed. 15 mile test drive replicating the same conditions and no noise. It was the 4WD system all along and the culprit was a $10 check valve...