Search results

Originally Posted By: Kira OK, I'll say it first: Something's wrong here The weird thing is that the car doesn´t run poorly as a over rich tuned carburetor would, it has good power but my spark plugs are fouling with carbon every 3 months

Originally Posted By: dishdude Saw a ton of these when I was in South America. It's pretty much a Yugo! I wouldn´t say it is a Yugo, it is more like a Fiat 128. The closest thing to my car in the United States is the Fiat X1/9, similar engine, transmission and suspension

Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy Originally Posted By: Emanuel Originally Posted By: d00df00d I also have a ~1300 cc engine that gets 15 MPG. :] What car is it? RX-8 in the sig This is crazy, my piston engine consumes as much gas as a rotatory

Originally Posted By: zeng Faulty cap not holding up pressure, OP has no overheating as yet. So do you think that only putting a new radiator cap and continuing without a tstat my weird overheating will stop?

Originally Posted By: vwmaniaman Is the electric fan running> Yes, intermently when the car is standing still

Originally Posted By: Miller88 Why was the thermostat removed? Venezuelan mechanics are crazy, they think that because we live in a hot climate cars don´t need a tstat. The original tstat lasted 12-14 years and then we put a aftermarket one that failed 1 year later, we decided to not use tstat...

Originally Posted By: Ducked The usual "First World" advice is to get a chemical test for combustion gases. Dunno if that's available here (in Taiwan) or in Venesuala, or how I would ask for it here, or how much it'd be likely to cost. There isn´t a coolant chemical test avaible, but the...

Originally Posted By: PeterPolyol Having no thermostat is bad news. It not only regulates flow to the rad but when it opens, it closes the bypass circuit. No thermostat means the bypass is fully open along with the radiator and so coolant flow is unpredictable. Find a tstat asap, even a used one...

Originally Posted By: eljefino It could be the radiator cap is no good. This keeps pressure on, and prevents boiling. I had a faulty radiator cap before, I replaced it and know I can feel that the upper radiator hose has more pressure Originally Posted By: eljefino Are you running 50/50...

Originally Posted By: mk378 Before each trip, when completely cold, open the radiator cap and confirm the radiator is full to the top. The expansion tank should be about 1/3 full, or to the "FULL COLD" line if it has one. This could be the problem, the radiator doesn´t stays full all the time...

Originally Posted By: d00df00d I also have a ~1300 cc engine that gets 15 MPG. :] What car is it?

Originally Posted By: Nick1994 Depends on how and where it's driven. Is it sitting in traffic and driving around towns at low speeds and climbing hills? Or is it going down the highway at 90 km/h in a straight line on flat ground? Happy driving in traffic, this car is fun as [censored] it...

I think that the engine needs the thermostat because it creates a restriction so bubbles can form in the cooling jackets

Originally Posted By: KneeGrinder Do you have an overflow bottle with a small hose line feeding it from the radiator just below the radiator cap? Do you, or have you added any coolant or water to the radiator? or overflow bottle? Bubbles are not ok. They are not normal. I was confused when...

Originally Posted By: Linctex Originally Posted By: Emanuel I have a 1999 Fiat Uno, it is carbureted and has a 1297 cc engine that loves to rev thanks to it´s dual barrel weber carburetor. Because of the way I drive it I´m getting 15 MPG, that is so funny for me. Isn´t that fuel consumption...

I have a 1999 Fiat Uno, it is carbureted and has a 1297 cc engine that loves to rev thanks to it´s dual barrel weber carburetor. Because of the way I drive it I´m getting 15 MPG, that is so funny for me. Isn´t that fuel consumption American V8 Truck territory?

I have a 01 Corolla with almost 290k miles, it´s thermostat have been removed I know that I should buy and put one again but I can´t afford it and I will stick with the consequences, I live in Venezuela and hyperinflation is crazier than you will ever be able to imagine so please focus on the...

This are the results using 75 g/m2 printing paper, I took the sample 15 minutes after the engine was shutdown at operating temp, I let the drop dry for 2 days. The oil is 1725 miles old by the way. What do you think about using this kind of paper? Could a different paper give me better results?

I want to start perfoming blotter spot tests every 500 miles to see how the oil is perfoming on my car, I know that this kind of test can´t replace a UOA but I want to start getting used to this kind of test so I can know when a specific oil brand is performing worse than others. What procedure...

Originally Posted By: demarpaint