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I couldn't disagree more with your mechanic's suggestion to run a 20W-50 as some sort of protection in the event an oil pick-up problem. That antiquated grade has no business in your tight modern engine. Your oil pump will be deep in relief reducing oil flow and raising oil temp's. A bad idea...

There is no lubrication advantage in running an oil heavier than specified, just disadvantages on start-up/warm-up. Your engine has been torture tested using M1 5W-30 and has electronic safety management systems in place to deal with exceptionally high oil temp's based on that oil should it...

Hi Emperor6 and thanks for the PM. Firstly this is not a dexos 1 approved oil but rather a heavier low SAPS dexos 2 oil intended for light duty diesels. I would start using the lighter dexos 1 oil such as the OEM M1 5W-30 or PP 5W-30 as these will be more suitable for street use especially...

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL No, you stepped in to peddle your ultra thin oil agenda... Really? So you now consider the 5W-30 I recommended in this tread to be "ultra thin"! Now I've heard everything. Again, nice try.

Thanks for digging up to oil pressure spec's although 80 psi seems higher than what I would have thought the oil pump relief valve setting would allow for a 'B' engine. Of course that's easy enough for the OP to check by simply raising the engine rpm on a cold engine to see if 80 psi can be...

Originally Posted By: Shannow It's advertising fluff...not "condoning", or recommending anything. Ads aren't documentaries. You can dismiss it as "fluff" but they are selling PUP 0W-40 for use in BMWs. Consequently they are implying at the very least that it can be used in place of the BMW...

Originally Posted By: Shannow Originally Posted By: CATERHAM and reduced oil flow 100% of the time otherwise. You know that the bearings only take what they need from the pressurised galleries (or should, I've shown you enough times)... Flow doesn't lubricate. Funnily enough, in your drive...

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL Originally Posted By: CATERHAM The 0W-40 will likely still be heavier on start-up at these temp's vs a typical synthetic 5W-30 At -23C? (-10F) No. The crossover will be somewhere around -15C (5F) Originally Posted By: CATERHAM and reduced oil flow 100% of the...

Originally Posted By: Gokhan Even better, run 0W-40 for added protection. That's ridiculous. The 0W-40 will likely still be heavier on start-up at these temp's vs a typical synthetic 5W-30 and reduced oil flow 100% of the time otherwise. So where is "added protection" unless a 40 grade oil was...

Forget the MMO. The engine will start with the 10W-30, just keep the rev's as low as possible, very gradually warming up the engine and you'll be fine. But next oil change go with a 5W-30.

Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus Originally Posted By: CATERHAM But what's stranger is that the PUP 0W-40 being poured into the BMW isn't even the Euro 0W-40 but the 0W-40 spec'd for Chrysler! That's what I was getting at. Its the Chrysler SRT oil they're using in BMW's, NOT any euro-spec...

Likely Shell since they make the Motomaster brand of engine oils.

Originally Posted By: bluesubie Originally Posted By: bananaman82 Considering the trouble I had in this situation with ALL receipts and using proper oil, I am not risking it. What kind of warranty do you have? As I mentioned earlier, most repairs made under "goodwill" from SoA have a 12k mile/1...

Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary Hi, bunnspecial - I have some considerable experience with the "B" Series engine. In their early days I saw them go out to 350k before overhaul or major issues. We used 20W-20, 30 or 10W-30 lubricants and the results were always excellent In your case I would...

Solarent, nice piece. Yes the conventional thinking that lighter oils will automatically lead to less engine running time in full hydrodynamic mode and more in mixed or boundary has always been flawed. Obviously you still have to maintain primarily hydrodynamic lubrication to achieve any fuel...

Originally Posted By: dailydriver The biggest shock is WHY did SOPUS make a Euro 0W-40 without the Bimmer approvals?!?! The obvious answer is not to compete with the 0W-40 they make for BMW. But what's stranger is that the PUP 0W-40 being poured into the BMW isn't even the Euro 0W-40 but the...

Originally Posted By: SR5 What your saying sort of makes sense to me, and I see no harm in knowing my oil pressure under different operational conditions. Which leads me to another idea. What about a oil cooler for the WRX? Or a larger one if it has one as standard. Temp and viscosity are...

Originally Posted By: Shannow OP, those oil pressures being quoted are for the maximum limits of engine wear using the OEM oil grade before mechanical intervention is required to fix a PROBLEM...they are not an oil selection tool. That's a premise to suit an agenda that has never been endorsed...

Checking the oil level between oil changes is important at least until you know what the oil consumption is under all conditions. I don't believe an oil pressure gauge will void your warranty since the reason for the bearing failure was claimed to be oil starvation it would certainly seem...

Well that is indeed interesting. We know that the new BMW 0W-40 (and all BMW oils) are now made by Shell (Pennzoil) but are they saying the Pennzoil Euro 0W-40 which doesn't have BMW approval stated on the bottle (unless it has recently been updated) can also be used? It's certainly cheaper...