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Originally Posted by domer10 Look into rotella gas truck instead of T6. Literally made for applications like this. What do you mean by this? Is RTG meant for conventional MPFI v6 and v8 applications, or is RTG meant for GDI turbo applications, or are you saying it doesn't matter what...

Thanks for all the input. I think I'm going to try the Castrol Edge 0w40 and a motorcraft FL300 filter

SO has a 2019 3 2.5L. Manual says 87. Use 87! Simple as that.

Into the tbird: 5qt Castrol Edge 0w40 and a Motorcraft FL300

Wow thanks for all the replies. I think I'll look in to VR1 10w30 and Edge 0w40 some more. 5qt of Edge is only $23! Originally Posted by SteveG4 Originally Posted by clinebarger Your Lima 2.3L camshaft doesn't care what oil you run. Well, there you go, fusseli. Valvoline VR1 10W-30... 6 qts...

She's beautiful, isn't she? Specified for API SF. How can I keep those cam lobes intact. I've researched ad nauseum and the answer keeps changing over the last few years. I've ran in the last 7 years: Mobile 1 HM 10w40 Quaker Defy 10w40 Rotella T6 5w40 -- recently reformulated, not sure if I...

Silicon isn't that bad. If it's a panel filter, try and clean the sealing edges. If it's a CAI, make sure all connections have hose clamps, especially the PCV breather tube. I've off road in extremely dusty conditions, and run OCIs over 7k, and have had similar or lower silicon with my afe CAI...

Went through a tube of Valvoline multipurpose red stuff, won't buy it again. Ran out all drippy from the grease gun and from the zerks on my ball joints and tie rods. Messy crap. Picked up a tube to replace it of Royal Purple ultra grease, seems more tacky and stable and is supposed to be great...

Nice! My UOAs also validate my AFE air filter. There's never ending false rumors in regards to those things letting dirt in

After some research, it looks like double digit iron and copper is normal in a Pentastar with 5-8k mile OCI. ALso, there are very similar numbers in the universal averages from Blackstone on my make/model compared to other Jeeps with the 3.6L.

Don't know much about it. I think the 3.2 is supposed to be a 3.6 but with cylinder sleeves. I don't know how much is the same or if that's the only difference.

What if it was an M1 run? Not sure what you mean

Interesting you mention that, instead of PP I put in PP HM this time in its place. Wild hair I guess, and I'm wondering if it will have any effect on my oil burning.

Another one for the records, previous two oil changes were both PP 5w20 and Mopar AB oil filter, and AFE drop-in dry media air filter. This present analysis is from switching to a full AFE CAI dry media, and a Fram XG filter, and again PP 5w20. Notice how there's no increase in filterable...

Amazing how the cheap stuff does just as well.

Unfortunately I don't have any UOAs from when I was using the OE paper filter. I asked Blackstone on my last UOA, which is probably why they mentioned it again this time, but they said silicone is healthily low and controlled. This is impressive to me, after offroading in Moab this spring I...

Originally Posted By: HoosierJeeper Nice report. I'm VWB in mine (with Formula shell on the shelf for the next changes), 15k miles and it hasn't used a drop of oil between changes. Which oil is VWB?

Another OCI done. I ended this one early with 14% left on the OLM due to lots of dusty and offroad early this year. Everything's in the clear, and my oil consumption has FINALLY reduced from 1.5 qts to 0.5 qts it really did take 30k for my rings to seat, I guess...

Not sure on the qt/1000 mi rule for the warranty. I am almost certain that if I took it to the dealer they wouldn't do anything. In all honesty, it seems fine, I just check the level cold and top it off every few months. I'm hoping the rings are just taking their time settling in... Anyone...

+1 Keep the level topped off adequately and let it ride.