Search results

Why do people “mix” different oils for? No need to mix different brands, because at the end of the day, using a good oil that has api or acea or whatever spec you like, and changing it on time is what matters the most. I’m an engine/car/oil enthusiast too, (that’s why I’m on Bitog), but I never...

I recently came across a product called “ShinEtsu Silicone grease” on amazon. It seems like a product made for Hondas, might even be a Honda part number product. I read the reviews on Amazon and other forums and it seemed like the best product for rubber rejuvenating to keep them from cracking...

I’ve tried T6 Multi vehicle 5w30 (dual rated for gas and diesel) in my 4.3 vortec couple months back. The oil did fine, the engine didn’t blow up, I took it on road trips, and everything was normal. I believe the 5w30 MV was on the thicker side of a 30 weight. I had great oil pressure...

Working on my 2001 Chevy Blazer 4 door 4x4 right now as I type this. Working on something simple this time. I’ve spent countless hours doing big jobs on this thing for preventative maintenance, and to get it super reliable and dependable even for really long trips. I’ve had this truck for over...

It’s actually not normal to see visible metal glitters in the fluid. You should have some metal on the drain or fill plug magnet, but seeing metal in the fluid is not normal. You need to shorten the fluid change interval, or make sure the first few fluid changes get done very early. That...

Many people won’t believe me, but I will share my story with VRP, because i am seriously impressed with this oil. I did an oil change this past Saturday, and put in some VRP 5w-30 in my 2001 Chevy Blazer 4.3 Vortec. First time using VRP. I changed the oil, and drove 50 miles (round trip)...

2001 Chevy Blazer 4x4. 4.3L Vortec Out: Shell Rotella T6 MV 5w30 with Napa Gold filter. In: Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 with Fram Ultra Synthetic filter.

I own a 2001 Chevy Blazer 4 door 4x4. Body on frame, big 4.3l v6 pushrod engine, soft suspension, easy and cheap to work on at the driveway, just big enough for daily driving to work and groceries, and occasional road trips and off-roading. The 4l60e isn’t great, but mines still going strong at...

Whenever “Why use 20wt oil” discussion pops up, I like to tell people actual proof that 20wt oils are more than adequate for regular driving with a reasonable oci. My 2010 Ford Taurus SHO with the 3.5 Ecoboost twin turbo engine, have always used 5w20 or 0w20 ever since I bought the car in...

I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF in my 2001 Chevy Blazer power steering. It operates really nicely, and doesn’t make any noise. GM actually recommends “power steering fluid”, but I just use atf, and it’s honestly better with atf in my opinion. I just suck out a quart and add new quart of atf about...

I haven’t been keeping up with ILSAC GF-7 SQ at all. I just read a post saying it’s coming next month on the 31st. I just heard about it few minutes ago. What differentiates the GF7 from GF6? I just feel like GF6 SP came out very recently, and it was supposed to be really good, and GF7 is...

I work at a ford dealership parts department. Not many people know this: When the ford dealer does an oil change with “Synthetic Blend”, the synthetic blend oils actually are in huge metal bulk tanks outside the shop. And these bulk tanks get filled up by local oil manufacturers or local oil...

These gm v8s, sbc vortecs, LT, or LS are gonna be happy with good old 5w-30. No need for anything thicker or thinner

Cold engine oil (no matter what xW-xx it is) is still too thick for engines even while it’s cold. Using a 50 or a 60 grade oil on any regular passenger vehicle is overkill, because it will just take longer for the oil to exit bearings, and this isn’t a benefit at all. If the oil is too thick...

2001 Chevy Blazer 4.3 Vortec. Out: Mobil 1 HM 5w-30 (about 2000 miles on this oil.) In: Shell Rotella T6 MV 5w-30. Just trying out Shell Rotella T6, because of all the hype over it. The VOA doesn’t seem impressive at all, and it has zero Molybdenum, but it’s the same story with all other T6...

So I’m assuming friction modifier (in this case moly) is mostly used in passenger car motor oils for fuel economy reasons, with less zinc but more moly?

I wonder what exactly will change when GF7 becomes a thing. Better base oils, or better/new types of additives?

I know people on Bitog love molybdenum, but what are some of the downsides to using an oil with zero molybdenum? Seems like the T6 has no moly, but has a decent amount of boron.

Just want to know if I should just use the 10w30 version of the T6, or use the 5w30 multi vehicle API SN version? Is the 5w30 the same of quality as their non API SN rated T6 like the 10w30, 5w40, and 15w40? Asking because they are all the same price.

Might have to try it out on my old chevy 4.3 vortec! Its only got 110k miles. I'm the second owner, and the lifter valley was pretty nasty last time I replaced the lower intake gaskets. This oil might clean it out some.