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I have observed movement in engines I have built as well. My standard ring installation pattern is always: Oil ring gap towards camshaft, top ring to rear of engine parallel to the piston pin, 2nd ring to front of engine parallel to the piston pin. When I have gone back into engines I have...

It was very important to me when I was 16. It is not important to me now (almost 60). However, in that space of time when I was between 14 and roughly 21 I fell in love with those sorts of cars (American muscle cars 1964 to 1972); consequently I still own and drive them, albeit, a lot more...

4 new P225/70R15 General RT45s on the Impala. They are mounted on Chevrolet 15x6 Rally wheels. I have 600 miles on them and am happy so far. These supercede the RT43s.

1967 Impala SS Powerglide 130,000 miles on unit In - Mobil ATF D/M ATF Out - Unknown Filter - ATP Everything looks good, minimal amount of grey paste, old fluid was red and healthy. Replaced converter seal and output shaft seal as well.

Big week (July 1 to July 7) - removed engine from the Impala, replaced the rear main seal, oil pan (original had a stripped plug) and pan gasket. Installed heavy duty oil pump drive shaft with steel retainer. Replaced flexplate. Also did the torque converter seal, rear output shaft seal and a...

1967 Impala SS 327 L30 Vehicle miles - 130000 Oil change date - 7/1/23 Oil in - Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w-40 Oil Filter Used - Wix Miles on oil - 1750 miles Oil out - M1 10w-30 Replaced rear main seal, used 4 qt. fresh oil, did not replace filter.

I did not like my LE series very much. Dry (while cornering) and wet traction (under all conditions, they did not ever hydroplane though) was poor. Noise was fine as was tread wear. The Michelins I put on made a big positive difference in handling. My generation was not an LE3 though so it could...

Are you missing the end clip? It is pretty much impossible for that rod to come off with that clip installed. It has a double eyelet and a snap on section. You insert the rod through the clip and hole in your latch simultaneously and then flip the clip part over and snap it onto the rod itself...

In order roughly; Greek Oil and vinegar Italian French 1000 Island

They go to the exact same recycling depot as my used oil. I go once every two years or so.

1977 Dodge D100

I am not a big rum drinker but when I do, I like Sailor Jerry.

Best - 2001 Jetta TDI 60 Imperial MPG highway (50 MPG US) Worst - 1970 Chevelle LS6 9 Imperial MPG city (7.5 MPG US)

I will try any API approved (or boutique with credentials) brand that is on sale / clearance etc. I am not fussy it just needs to be on sale.

I have been both. Now that I am retired it is mostly #2. We now deliberately take the slow way to destinations and avoid main highways and Interstates where possible. It adds a few hotel nights to the cost and a bit of gas because the back roads are not efficient but now we view it as part of...

1 - Many vehicles use a calibrated orifice instead of a true mechanical "valve". 2 - Sometimes when you replace a true mechanical PCV valve, the new part is a hollow piece with a calibrated orifice instead.

If you are referring to oils that have "extended" length drain intervals, my go to is the M1 EP series. I am partial to the M1 filter as well or the Fram Ultra. If you are referring to the "high" mileage style oils (for use in vehicles with high mileage) I do not have a recommendation as I...

Yes! I did use these too on occasion, brings back memories.

I still drive carbureted vehicles, hopefully always will. Today, I use whatever synthetic is on sale (prices are so close now I don't bother with conventionals), generally PUP or M1 in 5w30 or preferably 10w30 (getting hard to find). "Back in the day" I used conventional 99% of the time in...