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How do I do that? I've done it before with carburetors but where do I spray it with a Feul injected vehicle?

That's what I was thinking... The original problem might have been a combination of a fuel issue with bad battery connection. After I cleaned the connections, the truck started and only ran for a bit but the battery stayed good, unlike before. I plan on checking Feul filters and all that next...

It only runs for about 45 seconds but I can have my wife check while I'm inside giving it gas or vice versa

The last time I tried, I just put the cables on the post and started it (didn't stay running of course), but no, they weren't tightened down. I didn't think that would impact whether or not it would STAY started, but after reading this, I'll tighten them down and try again.

I did check the connection s and looked for corrosion. There was plenty on the positive cable so I unhooked the terminal thing and took a wire brush to it and put it back together. It started right up (where as before, it wouldn't do anything) ran for about 45 seconds (foot on the gas a little...

I'll start there. Sorry for sounding stupid but which one is the ground cable? Do I start at the negative battery cable and work back?

Even though AutoZone said it tested good?

Just took the battery in and it checked out ok but low (even though in the truck, it won't even light up a dash light).

Could a dirty ground or cable problem cause the spark from the negative battery cable when I first started it? Do I just go through the wiring, starting from the battery, and make sure everything is clean/tight?

The meter on the dash was pointed dead center. However, once the truck stalls out after a couple minutes, when I try to start it again, NOTHING. no lights, no gauges. Nothing. I charged the battery when I started and after everything stalled out and went to nothing, I took the battery to...

Kinda old... It was really low so I filled a 5 gallon gas can and put it in a few months ago

1999 Dodge Dakota Sport. V6. It's a truck that kind of sits for a while. I usually start it about one every month or two, I usually have to charge the battery to get it going. Anyway, this last time, it will start and run for a couple minutes and then the rpms will go lower and lower until...

Ok, thanks for the info. So, in your opinion, 500-550 warmed up and in drive with the break applied is acceptable? If I put it in park, the idle goes up a bit of course. Not sure if the idle is supposed to be measured in park or drive with the break applied.

Ac off. I'd like to know how to read it. Is the first line 500?

I appreciate all the suggestions! Now I know where to start. So, from the picture I posted, do you think the idle looks about right in drive?

We used to spray carb cleaner around the engine to see if the idle went up... Is that how you do it? How do you check for a vacuum leak?

Same. It's only when in drive, foot on the break at a stop light. It goes away when in park or neutral. Did you ever figure out what it is?

Sorry, should have said "vibration at idle". How do you check the motor mounts?

Gradually. I'll check out the Feul cleaners. I called the shop and they confirmed they installed NGK iridium.