Search results

Keep in mind the amount of brake dust generated also matters. I am using creamic brake pads ==> less dust, and I find that cleaning the pins whenever I am replacing the brakepads is enough enough to prevent problems. It is a good idea to take a look at the rotor wear pattern also. Sticking...

What happens, is that over time brake dust get inside and hardens the high temp grease. If you can pull the pins out, it is just a matter of cleaning them, including cleaning off any rust buildup. Then lube them with good a high-temp caliper gerase. I tend to use a copper enhanced romula for...

You may be able to loweer the temp a bit by just switching to Redline. I have 15w50 street (non-racing) RL in my Kawi, seems to run a bit cooler (15-20 degrees) with that, than with mobile-1.

If the oil level is too high, it may cause the oil to foam up, and then you may loose more oil. When you are on the high mark, little things like "the car was not level when you took the reading" may come into play, and you may be actually higher than the high mark because of something like...

Yes, it seems clear that the M1 15w50 synthetic is a good option for this. It is mostly now gtl based, with some PAO and Esters added, fairly high zinc. I have seen some other manufacturers' manuals call out the M-1 as well for the Hydrogear trannys. Question: I have 25 hours on my Ariens...

Near where I am, E0 is hard to get, and expensive. 93 octane E0 is about $10 / gallon right now. So I figured I could just remove the ethanol from the plain 93 octane E10 by adding extra water, which causes the ethanol/water to settle out at the bottom. I did this using a see-through vessel...

"Always see catastrophic failure" may be a bit of an exaggeration. Reality is probably a bit more nuanced. I get it that hydroman is a convinced proponent of the 2 synthetic oils mentioned, and I am not against using those products at all. In fact I am using the M-1 15w50 myself. But I have...

Comment on the Redline ester based oil: Ester based lubricants have one disadvantage. As I recall it is called hydrolitic breakdown. If I understand it correctly, this may be a sub-optimal for the Hydrogear because of the long OCI, and because the hydros are open to air via the vent holes. I...

mrlawnguy, I think you just freed me from my compulsion. You are right, I though about it and makes zero sense to waste my time to post to these threads, I will stop now.

The URL you posted has 2 references a 0w20 and a 10w30. The URL actually points to an FVP 10w30 synthetic. In all likelihood it is an OK product, although I never heard of the manufacturer. I would put it in my push mower in a pinch, but would not use it in my zero turn's Kawasaki engine. Keep...

Correct. that is what I was talking about. It is just that synthetic base stocks require a lot less VII-s because the base stock is multi-viscous in and by itself.

If you want high HTHS, you can pick a lubricant that has that. Not necessarily a 30 monograde. If you go by that, probably would end up with something 20W50-ish

"Monograde oils are an acceptable option if the equipment can provide excellent oil cooling and constant temperature control". OPE is not famous for either of the above. Monograde oils thin out at high temperature and thicken at low temp. The difference between them and multigrade is the...

Passgas55: I am currently using a high zddp ( 1300 ppm) 15w50 in my mower (zt and push mower both) . If I had a genset. I would probably use a product that was designed for long OCI. E.g.: the 0w40 euro M-1, or some other brand "euro" labeled oil for this reason. That is what I am using in my...

I have no problem with cheap, as long as it meets my base stock requirement. GTL, PAO , Ester or some combination thereof. I often buy bulk packaged M1 at Wallymart (Comes in a plastic pouch w. a spigot, in a carboard box). That is rather cheap. One of the reasons why I adopted this...

I wonder about this: a monograde would be thicker at even a not very cold startup. There will be a big viscosity difference @20 celsius (which is pretty balmy) and at @140. Would this not lead to increased startup wear compared to multigrade? Arent's synthetic base stocks inherently of high...

I do not think anybody doubts that different base stocks have different costs. Ester being the most expensive, followed by PAO, followed by GTL, other group 3-s, group 2 and refined mineral oils. I would be surprised if a maker/blender could pick a cheap base stock, and then turn this into...

Some folks seem to approach their OPE-s as if they were not worth anything, or if these are the beggars who can't be choosers. "It gets the leftovers". I don't look at it that way. My zt lawnmower is a full member of my small republic of ICE-s. I am probably a fool and OC, but I try to take care...

The winter and summer viscosity do not constitute a "range". Rather, these describe how the oil behaves when very cold, and how it behaves once it is at close to engine operating temperature. So the 0w can be considered strictly a cold start thing. You can forget about it for a lawn mower...

Ah I see. That filter you link to seems nearly identical to the Hydrogear OEM. Made by Mann-Hummel. Presume it is Wix? . And it says, no bypass. The Stens page must be posting incorrect info. Do you guys have any info on the Rotary brand?