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Looks like I'll be picking up a 2020 GMC Terrain with the 2.0L LTG Turbo. 100k miles, unknown maintenance history but runs nice and no obvious sludge or gunk visible through the oil fill hole. What would be the best HPL oil for this engine? I've never had a turbo engine before so the game is...

Final update. They totaled it. They took it apart a bit to look for unseen damage and found that the subframe was tweaked and it needed lots of suspension work. They offered us $8,500 which actually wasn't that bad but I got them up to $10,500. Bummer. It was perfectly maintained and in...

I didn't read all the responses but I've got some thoughts as I'm looking for a car to replace my wife's that just got totaled. Most people hate dealing with private party. Craigslist and FB are so full of scammers that I'd rather not even bother. You may be a dealer but your ads and...

Yahoo is on its last legs, I'm surprised it has lasted this long. Same thing with AOL. You might consider changing a more more modern email service, like Gmail. Using your Google account to log in to yahoo still relies on yahoo.

Thanks man, I'll check partsgeek out. I've always been a RockAuto fanboy. So partsgeek doesn't have any Sankei 555 parts listed for my application, but if I go to Partsouq.com I have plenty. Prices are comparable to Rockauto/Partsgeek prices. Partsouq.com is a weird name for a website but...

Replacing the steering and suspension components in the front end of my 1987 Toyota 4Runner with IFS suspension. All of it. New upper and lower control arms (ball joints pre-installed), inner/outer tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm, etc. Toyota still makes a couple parts but they are stupid...

That is the right thing to do! But I've got a bit of a problem. When I did the B12 soak one of the spark plugs came out tough and went in even tougher. I'm certain the threads are toast and the next time it comes out I'll need to do a heli-coil. As soon as this happened I had a flash back to...

I see alot of comments here from people not in the rust belt. 80's and 90's trucks are getting sought after and considering they don't exist anymore in the rust belt....people are willing to pay big money. If this had less than 100k miles on it I could see it fetch this price on...

A front alignment issue would cause excessive wear on the FRONT treads....100%. If you never got the tires rotated, the fronts would be bald and the rears would look great. If you do get the tires regularly rotated you might just eventually be wearing out all 4 tires from a bad front...

We probably could have. But the mower was undersized/underpowered to begin with for the size lawn and a bunch of other things had been going wrong at that point. We had already replaced the electric PTO twice, the deck spindles were starting to go again, and the Hydrostatic rear end was...

Yup! The timing chain is quiet for now, not sure if I have metal or plastic backed timing chain guides. If the rings are indeed worn that maintenance will get done on an engine stand when it gets re-built. Might be a while as it runs great.

This will take a minute to explain. :LOL: As I said above, I got this when I was 18. My father had an auto repair shop so we had access to a lot of vehicles people wanted to get rid of. This particular 4Runner had a TON of body rust and bad engine. I got it for $200 and put a junkyard...

Since this isn't some classic car in need of a "professional" repair, and you state that you aren't going to have it forever....here is what I would do. Take off that wheel liner to expose the rotted/rusted out area. Use a scraper to get rid of the undercoating or whatever gunk/paint is on...

@tired One of these days I'll take the valve cover off to take a peek at how dirty it is inside. The 80's was the peak of emission gadgetry and this engine is covered in vacuum hoses, vacuum control valves and other doo-dads. All of those hard and soft lines are now brittle as heck and most...

I had a set of those on my wife's old Nissan Versa. Got plenty of miles out of them. Were all 4 tires wearing poorly or just the fronts? Did you have them rotated regularly? I'll bet you were either close to the load limit of the tires and chewed them up or you have an alignment issue...

Around 2000-ish. I was a teenager and one of my chores was to mow my parents lawn. All 3 acres of it with my dad's MTD lawn tractor. Nothing special, it was a Home Depot unit he got in the early 90's. Probably an 18hp engine and a 42" deck. If the grass was thick and the motor got a load on...

lol....I clicked on this from the "latest threads" on the main page not realizing it was in the "humor" section!!!! I was about to go full dad-splaining mode haha. I did put gear oil into an engine once. It worked! Had a Jeep 4.0L I6 that spun a rod bearing. Normally ran 5W-30, switched to...

Seriously...your best option is to have a tuner set the Fan-On temp to something like 200F and Fan-Off temp to 190F. It will cost a lot less than you think and can even be done through the mail. They will send you an OBDII-to-USB cable that will connect to a laptop and it will take all of 5...

@DirectRejection Thanks! And for all others...this is a pleasure vehicle and as such $$$ doesn't really matter as much. Considering I change the oil once per year I'm not too picky about the cost. I'll probably spend more on wax than I will any oil. Considering I've already done a long soak...

20W-50 is a common oil for these engines. Many would run a 5W-30 in the winter and a 10W-40 in the summer....when these engines were new! 40 years and 150-200k miles later I wouldn't hesitate to run 20W-50 in it during the summer. It usually a toss up on what premium 10W-40 or 20W-50...