Search results

2 Sonatas, 2011 and 2018, both Theta II GDIs. I run Napa/Parts Master (Ashland/Valvoline last I knew) 5w40 Euro, and run a 4K interval.

In my experience, the only reman engines we've had any kind of luck using at the shop were all sourced from OE. We installed multiple ATK engines a few years back and had them all back out for one reason for another; leaks, knocking, and low oil pressure among other things. Their warranty costs...

Yep, the next Pete Carroll

Something to take into account as well is that many shops, on a job with low or no parts margin, will matrix the labor and hike it up to make up for it. This would make the total profit margin of the job whatever said shop needs it to be, and would explain why this job has a seemingly ridiculous...

This was honestly my first thought. Usually vacuum leaks that are bad enough and engine idles high are 1) pretty easy to find, and 2) will definitely show up on a scan tool in the form of lean fuel trim, or in the case of gm pre-96 cars skewed block learn values.

I second this, looked it up in the service manual and it says the same thing, behind the glove box. The processor strategy on these cars uses the evaporator discharge temp to determine whether or not the a/c clutch should be engaged, and if the temp is out of spec it disables it.

If this thing still has a yellow dipstick in it then there's a better chance than not that it hasn't had the recalls completed that would make it eligible for the extended warranty on the engine; might want to check that out ASAP. As far as noise, the one we had go bad in our 11 Sonata didn't...

The 4.0 sohc engines seemed to have valve spring issues as well, have seen a couple over the years. Only way to know more would be a leak down test and probably partial teardown to see what broke. It all comes down to how much it's worth to you to find out what's really wrong.

100% the inner CV joint is separated, and all the leverage in the world won't force it. If you want any chance of saving the joint your best bet is to get the CV nut off and pull the axle out of the knuckle, and if you're lucky you might be able to get the inner joint to line up and slide back...

Nope, this would be my plan of attack as well. On higher mileage engines I'll generally recommend a timing chain set as well, but 91k isn't probably there yet, unless it rattles on cold start it's probably ok. Usually I pull the valve seals out of the head gasket kit and have the machine shop...

Does you have to top the coolant off on occasion? What does the spark plug look like? Honestly misfire only on startup that goes away fairly quickly is characteristic of a failed head gasket, and when they fail in this manner they nearly always pass a chemical head gasket test, as they don't get...

Right above where it discusses iridium spark plug life and the S series plugs being rated at 100,000km, it states the same exact interval about platinum. I've taken multiple sets of Denso iridium long life plugs out of Toyotas with well over 100K MILES that still have the iridium tips on them...

If it isn't noisy when you spin it then send it. It's likely just a ball bearing, and will have a small amount of play anyway.

The OE number out of the Lincoln catalog is BE8Z6731AB, which is a Ford number for the FL910S.

Any chance you remember what the code was? Other than that, the 1.4 leaks and leaks, eventually it will need a thermostat, the water outlet at the driver side of the engine, VCT solenoid seals, valve cover, intake manifold, and the turbos are definitely known for breaking the outlet housings...

Not sure what it's function is on a Peugeot, but I know the Chrysler pentastar V6 uses it to vary the oil pump output. If I remember correctly it will command low output at idle and low load, and once you hit a certain rpm and load it cycles it to high. More than likely for no better reason than...

I have the top one, bought it 20 years ago from Sears, branded as Craftsman. Tbh I don't spend a lot of time sitting in it, but it is relatively comfortable and stable, and has held up well over the years.

Hemi water pumps, and the 3.7 V6/4.7 V8 water pumps that came before them are prone to failure. We see bad hemi WPs all the time, and many low mileage. Likely nothing to do with the coolant, engineering failure on this one.

With 1 and 4 being companion cylinders at opposite ends of the engine from each other and the way the ignition system works on this engine I'd be really surprised if it wasn't an ignition system problem. I agree with a module first, and if that doesn't cover it then you may have gotten a failed...

The pcv system on this engine is designed to also regulate crankcase pressure. When they go bad it causes full engine vacuum to be pulled in the crankcase, which is what separates the rear main seal. 100% a good idea to replace preventatively.