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Why dont just pour a bit to empty jug and the rest to your engine?

For me i just use oem iridium tt or ruthenium for new car and for older model just find the comparable model. Both has been proven long lasting, produce good power and very reliable for long run

I think this makes sense..even though mmo is not as strong as kreen, it is still effective in certain kind of sludge. At least this better than kero that may swell rubber beyond normal and will need replacement

Has anyone try the new Berryman Intake Valve and Combustion Cleaner, this is PEA-based and not the original HEST formula ? Wonder if this is as effective as CRC IVC GDI ?

Originally Posted by bchannell I know, I've heard don't buy Champion, don't buy Fram, yatta, yatta, yatta, but I've had good luck with Fram, and until this one, Champion too. So, I ordered a 24 pack of CJ14 plugs for the tractors in our family/neighborhood, and they came today, nicely packaged...

The original viscosity for EXTRA MT is actually 75w85 GL5

Of course you can opt for crosstrek with awd, good mpg and height clearance. Only if you like turbo engine then wrx may be suitable even though you lose the height convenience

Somehow I have access to Penrite Enviro, i am wondering if anyone tried the 5w20 or 0w20 before and whether their durability comparable with Castrol Edge or Mobil 1?

Originally Posted by Kamele0N @Molakule... Toyota specs GL4/GL5 fluids in their MTs (as that you can use whatever spec you want)... 1) how can they claim that? 2) I changed MT fluid to Motul Motylgear 75w90 wich is GL5...MTs shiftings are quite stiff when oil is cold...would that normalize...

Fuel economy..their new diff oil is lighter than 75w90, redline dave recommend RL 75w85 GL5

Originally Posted by ridgerunner Originally Posted by kr_bitog Seems Amsoil Sulphated Ash in SS series still pose issue on modern DI engine, and I am tired with their marketing that keep promoting different weight oil for different properties. Their NOACK for 0w20 is not that stellar as well...

I think both are good for your replacement. T-IV being older standard was supposed to be more viscous than WS, but both shears rather quickly especially T-IV. T-IV is mineral oil.

Seems Amsoil Sulphated Ash in SS series still pose issue on modern DI engine, and I am tired with their marketing that keep promoting different weight oil for different properties. Their NOACK for 0w20 is not that stellar as well

Originally Posted by Snagglefoot Thanks everyone. I went down to Canadian Tire and found a Gumout PEA bonanza! I bought the All in One. I thought I read all in one is less effective cleaner compared to Regane due to friction modifier added on it.

Originally Posted by DallasTexas I have used Kreen on my Mercedes with almost 300k miles, not only did it clean up the engine but my morning injector knock was gone. Now I use 2 oz Kreen on my Mercedes CDI every time I fill up. IMHO it is the best product out there. Kreen is very effective but...

Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi This is not true per GM's dexos site...AFE is D10101GH015 and EP is D10105GH015 (AP is D10108GH015). Interestingly enough, the M1 AP line was their first product group to have d1G2 license #s out on the shelves...however, that first batch of jugs/quarts also...

Interestingly M1 AFE 0w20 and M1 EP 0w20 has the same Dexos 1 Gen 2 license number but M1 AP 0w20 has different number. What does it mean?

Impressive Noack for Mobil and Valvoline..i like

Originally Posted by andyd Door post says 35 on Camrys. I run 40 to keep TPSM light off. It is more of nag ware than nanny ware. TPMS can be set to any pressure, just open the owner manual to read how to do it

Looks good for that thai filter, but seems the japan foam type flows better than the paper