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Oil sitting in a crankcase for a year or more goes through many temp changes, which creates moisture. Oil brand has no effect on this process, and moisture in the CC is bad thing...

I think compacts priced over $20K is ridiculous. Compact vehicles are supposed to be economical to own, and it's pretty hard make that case at their current pricing levels...pickup trucks are another example of out of sight prices...who wants to pay $50-60K for a work vehicle? That's a dang...

I wouldn't run ANY oil for longer than a year, regardless of mileage...

Wear reduction is a feature of ALL oils...if it doesn't reduce wear, then why use it?

There are NO reasonably priced new vehicles anymore...

I'm all for scientific comparisons, but it doesn't seem like anyone does those...

Full synthetic is full synthetic. I highly doubt any study, no matter how scientific, would find results showing Amsoil reduces engine wear any more than any other full synthetic, and if it did, the difference would be so minute it would be negligible...

Except put a reasonable price tag on their vehicles...

'98 Honda VTR1000F Super Hawk...

I like the videos where they compare Walmart's Super Tech to the boutique oils, and the ST either holds it's own, or outperforms the expensive oils....

What you experienced is that brand doesn't matter. Only spec, weight, and oil type (full syn or blend) matter...

Motorcycle grade Amsoil is $15+ a qt. Walmart's Super Tech is less than $9 a qt, and Rotella is even less...

No wonder dealer lots have new vehicles taking a year or more to sell...

Better plan, buy a 1 or 2 year old vehicle and drive it for 10> years. Let the original owner eat the bulk of the depreciation...

Mazda. I think their build quality has surpassed that of Toyota...

I don't have any trailer yet. I'm looking for one. I'm not worried about the bearings. I've never seen any go bad that weren't neglected...

Better quality bearings can be had at any automotive store, and they are a common size. The ones I put on my Trailer in a Bag lasted the entire time I had the trailer (over 10 years). I should also mention that installing the wheel chock and channel is like adding a spine to the trailer frame...

The first thing I do with any and every trailer, I remove the bearings, buy new, good quality ones, and pack them with syn grease....

A plywood deck would add even more weight, and I'd still have to install the wheel chock, and then the channel has to go on. I don't know why it would torque when loading/unloading a motorcycle. All of the push is straight forward and back down the middle of the trailer. I could see it if...

I'm guessing my problems with this trailer will be it's empty weight (too much), and it's cost (also too much). One thing I didn't mention is I don't need it to fold, and I also don't need it to tilt...the aluminum one from Northern Tool is looking better and better (except for its price, ouch!)...