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Subaru Forester 2024. 19947 total miles. Out: VRP 0w20 after 5100 miles. In: Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 with Subaru filter. Will change it every 5000 miles. It's been getting a bit better than 30 mpg on 20 weights until now. I'll bet it doesn't change a measurable amount. Love the way it sounds on...

Nonsense. "Blood thinners" are anti-coagulants...they do NOTHING to the viscosity of the blood, nor the color. "Blood thinners" is a dumb-downed label that almost all medical people use with laypeople which is frankly insulting and inaccurate. Anticoagulants work in several different manners to...

Yep, "pretty clean" is what I'd call it considering the mileage. Not perfect. And it wouldn't matter if at the beginning or end of an OCI. That doesn't change much (unless you have a "cleaning" ongoing, such as with Valvoline Restore and Protect, or perhaps High Performance Lubricant oil with...

Which is confounding in it's own way. Detergents are not fuel. So, wouldn't too much detergent decrease the energy available per unit volume, and if so, at what concentration? Octane, detergency, and a play on words muddies the selection process. Labeling the highest Octane as "Premium" is a...

It will be fine.

Mountain bike...not road bike. Just too much mud/grit/sand.

Beautiful! My practical experience is limited to wear on bicycle chains, which are much simpler than these in automotive use. The smaller the front and rear gears, the higher the wear rate of the chain (based upon miles ridden before the chain lengthens to it's service limit). And that's with...

I appreciate all the ideas being discussed from everyone! I don't think the tension stress is what wears a chain compared to the abrasion in the joints experienced during bending...so in that way, a chain is not like a rope. Whether a longer chain produces more total wear metals would be...

Right, more link joints. So, if you get X amount of wear during a bend (and essentially no wear when the chain is straight) each time a link makes it's way around its course the wear occurs as it bends around each gear it encounters. So the longer the chain, the less the wear because the less...

When you say it burned the exhaust valve "due to carbon", how do you know? Couldn't it have been due to a too-tight valve clearance? Did you do any valve clearance adjustments prior to this event?

Everyone is ignorant about many things. That's a fact. Being willing to learn is what allows you to gain knowledge. If everyone could approach topics this way, we'd be better off, but so many want to think what they think is "right". "I don't know, but would like to find out" was the beginning...

Here's a thought on long chains...the active bending of a chain is when abrasive wear would be greatest. So, the longer the chain, the less often the links make their maximum bend. As long as the slack is adequately addressed, the longer the chain the less the wear on any given link joint.

There is nothing "good" about the amount of "moly and boron" in an oil. There are different types of each, and different ramifications for each depending upon the other characteristics of all the other additives as well as the type and quality of the base oil. IOW: You're kidding yourself if you...

My 2014 K24 had the start-up rattle, it was the tensioner spring. Replaced it over 10,000 miles ago and it's still quiet as can be. No varnish seen anywhere, and when I replaced the valve cover gasket, it's VERY clean in the valvetrain. Always went by the MM and changed oil at 10-15% notice...

Solid rotors provide more surface area interacting with the pads...obviously. Slotted on a previously-owned Mini JCW kept glaze off of the pads, so they didn't squeal. Slots probably wear the pads out quicker though...but I hated the squeal I was getting. Preventing squeal is the only reason...

I'll take that as an attempt at humor.

Water has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid. Water vapor is absorbed out of the environment by brake fluid (brake fluid is hygroscopic...look it up if you don't know what that means), mostly from the vented reservoir cap opening(s). Once absorbed, when brake fluid is heated...

There is a difference between "closest to BMW LL 17 FE+" and what some people would recommend. "Closest to" would probably be Euro 0w20. Recommended would probably be something else...such as edyvw wrote. I asked Dave at HPL what to run in my B48 with the BMW LL 17 FE+ requirement, and he told...

That 0w30 ESP is what is going in my 2024 Forester next. Since 6000 miles is the maximum OCI, while under warranty, it makes little sense to stretch it out with something like HPL until at least after the warranty period. This car is mostly highway, but I'll probably be aiming at 5000 mile...

My first question would be: what were the temperatures during each of those OCIs? If it was significantly colder during the first run...that's a smoking gun regarding the lower MPG.