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There was an owner on the Outback forum that kept pushing SoA via email on the point in the manual about thicker viscosity being required in high temps. At first, SoA just kept pushing 0W-20 but this guy was pretty persistent and they finally said that the 0W-30 that he wanted to use was fine...

Hey I was right when I said there wouldn’t be much difference in fuel dilution with a shorter OCI.

A popular oil in Japan is a Subaru rebranded Total Euro 0W-30. http://www.pleiades-zero.com/?page_id=342 It is actually in the BRZ and WRX owner’s manuals even though both recommend 0W-20...

My guess is that Pennzoil paid for them.

Check the bottom of the FAQ's for more details.

@SubieRubyRoo went to get his calculator. 😜

I added 100k on a modified car, with the same engine as the OP, with an unpredictable outcome mixed oil. 😁 KV@100 didn't matter to me since I knew it was thicker than the "preferred" grade and KV@40 didn't matter since straight 10W-x could be used down to -4º F.

By the time my EJ turbo got to 90k miles the consumption was up to nearly 2 quarts in 6k mile intervals. I switched to Edge 10W-40 and would use 0W-40 for top ups to thin it out a bit during winter. That plan got me to over 190k with less than a quart consumption at just over 5k intervals before...

There have been multiple DI Subaru uoa’s posted in the UOA forum with high fuel and the owners stated that they did a lot of highway miles.

I have not seen that long drives help burn off fuel in DI Subaru’s.

No. The JDM FA24DIT in the WRX allows 5W-30 and Euro 0W-30.

This was happening a lot when the n/a Forester went to a 20 grade but the turbo version continued to spec 5W-30. Usually the dealers said that's just what's on the invoice but said they "really did use 5W-30". Many owners had the dealer change the oil again.

I've had an EGO 2102SP for just over 6 years now and previously had a Toro gas mower. After about 3 years, the 5 amp hour battery started overheating easily and the cut time was down to about 20-30 minutes and it takes me 40 to cut my lawn. I also got a new lawn treatment service during that...

A bit goofy, but this is an older video on the FA24DIT that talks about the strengths of the FA24 when it was thought that this would be the replacement engine for the STI. Not sure about bearing clearances, but basically it is a stronger engine than the FA20.

If you're curious what the engineers that built the engine would recommend, try finding Subaru Japan's recommendation. Still, not directly from the "engineers" but closer than an SoA recommendation. I would expect them to allow a range of oil grades which is the case for most models. The...

Thanks for that @OVERKILL !

High zinc and moly are LSPI quenchers but high phosphorus is not. Red Line also has a lot of calcium. I do believe they have a Euro oil which would probably be a better fit. That’s presuming you’re referring to the original-ish formula and not the later certified oil. I thought you were looking...

Actually, most GF5 oils in that thread lost viscosity due fuel dilution regardless of brand. Look for uoa’s from OAI in that thread for actual measured fuel dilution via GC. The C3 xW-30 oils like Mobil 1 ESP and Motul X-clean maintained viscosity.

That running out of grade is likely viscosity loss from fuel dilution so it's not an issue with the oil. No comment on the copper since I haven't seen the uoa's. You should be able to find a reduced SAPS Pennzoil Euro xW-30 at Wal-Mart if you don't want to pay for the Motul. There aren't very...

Can you elaborate on the few negative samples you've seen on X-clean 5W-40? X-clean 5W-30 is what IAG Performance recommends in their 2.0DIT builds so it's decent oil. There are also quite a few decent uoa's in an older long thread on NASIOC. If you've done EGR and TGV deletes you're probably...