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I've never changed a heater core. My oldest car at present is a 99 Dodge Caravan. I drain the rad and replace the lost coolant every 4 years.

IMO, improperly designed and or manufactured pistons. It is developing piston slap. Hyundai makes a lot of bad engines.

I worked on DC-10s for a few years and like them. Reversible motor pumps between the 3 hydraulic system made it easy to power up all the hydraulics with one simple electric pump on system number 1. Working on engine number 2 was a little different. The tail cone has a patio that opens up under...

I ran many long oci's like this and everything was fine with the reports. Upon removing the valve cover I found heavy varnish and a very small amount of sludge so backed off to slightly shorter intervals. I do like to see someone not afraid to stick their neck out a bit.

When used appropriately, block heaters save gas, prevent pollution, provided increased comfort and pay for the electricity costs many times over. Perhaps they should be mandatory equipment when sold in a cool climate. I use mine often to save gas but it's a pain plugging in and unplugging.

I recently cut apart a Canadian tire OE+ filter and compared it to a Hyundai filter. The Hyundai filter looked superior with about %50 more media and a metal vs plastic bypass valve. I do not consider the OE+ filter worth the money. For $2 more I buy the Hyundai filter.

I would use that filter for twice the interval. Waste of time and money. IMO.

My wife can never answer a yes or no question with anything less than 163 words.

I just bought some Kirkland 5w30 and it is Dexos 1 gen 3. If the Vavoline has better certifications I would go them. If not, save the money.

I would guess that nobody ever brake checks a tank.

Pay once, cry once. Use the proper fluid.

I would stay away from the HPL as it's expensive and I don't see an API logo on the bottle. As for the QS, it appears you drive mostly highway miles, so a 10,000 mi OCI should be doable.

The clear bottle is good so we can all see the additives as they settle to the bottom.

10 years with GDI engines. I use cheap synthetic [ store brand or name brand on sale]. Usually 5W30. As long as it meets the latest SAE spec - currently SP. If long trips, in good weather, the OCI will be over 8,000 miles. Short trips cold weather-4,000miles. In my opinion the only thing to...

I have an older Elantra with the same engine. Well made in my opinion. I use store brand 5w30 synthetic and Hyundai/Kia oil filters. In your case [8,000 mi/year], I would change oil every 4,000 mi and leave the oil filter on for two OCIs. Replace the timing belt accordingly.

About a year ago I looked into the cost of making a nitrile valve vs silicone. About $0.03 more for silicone.

I just replaced the cabin filters in the two Elantras I own, with cheap Chinese white box filters. Normally once a year, I remove the cabin filters, slap them on the ground and vacuum them. They were getting on 6 years old/50,000mi so I thought a change was in order. I can't really tell if there...

Does this oil have the licenses to keep the warranty valid? Economy of scale leads me to believe better bang for the buck can be had with something like Supertech with the Dexos Gen 3 license.

I don't know how accurate this tool is but the ecomodder website has a calculator that is fun to play with. https://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php

In my opinion. Change oil with the cheapest that is SAE SP approved twice a year. Doesn't have to be synthetic. A good oil filter every second oil change. The Hyundai filter is a good filter for the money. $10 each in my neighborhood.