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I’ve used Fluid Film for years, also NH Oil Undercoating recently. I find they both are pretty similar with perhaps NH oil being a tad bit thicker. I find all these wet based products are similar enough that it just comes down to price and ease of application, and because of THAT Fluid Film wins...

I’d probably look at like, it’s oil it’ll last a long time on a shelf, but when it’s sitting in an engine, occasionally being used? It’s not clean oil sitting in a bottle, it’s oil with carbon/soot/gas/and everything else sitting in your engine. I’d change it between 6-9 months. The only thing...

Thank god for the cliff notes version provided by everyone…I can’t bring myself to watch him anymore. There’s something about the combination of his voice/facial expressions.

I mean, to me I’m looking at that and the first thing that jumps out is the iron, then the flashpoint, then the TBN. But compared to an 8,500 mile interval I guess it’s ok. Seems like a long time on an oil, and we don’t have anything else to compare it to. We don’t know about makeup oil added...

As far as turning an oil dark quickly… Mobil1 EP for me stays pretty light colored until the 4,000 mile mark and then gradually gets darker up until I change it at 10,000 miles. Mobil1 ESP 0W30 went darker quicker, around 2,000 miles but hasn’t changed much since. Amsoil Signature Series went...

I had a 2018 purchased new, it wouldn’t matter if you put tears from god’s favorite animal in that thing, it would still consume oil. Almost from day one. Never mind misfires from leaking injectors (but that didn’t happen until 37,000 miles, right out of warranty). I’d definitely run VRP in a...

Yeah, I would say you’re probably on to something there…seems anything “good” goes away with engine oil. It “improves” and a new label and name go with it, along with new ingredients, with no guarantee of prior performance. Either that or the price goes up and you can’t get your hands on it...

And you’re telling me Mobil1 EP isn’t already doing that?

This^^^is exactly on point with what I’ve seen as a tech, and experienced personally with my own vehicles. Maintenance save a poorly designed vehicle/engine. We can try…it makes us feel good, but no oil or interval will save a poorly designed piston or poorly machined crankshaft oil gallery...

I’d give the Restore and Protect a try, but keep in mind that engine shouldn’t need cleaning at only 16,500 miles using Mobil1 EP every 7,500 miles. I’ve been using Mobil1 EP in my Toyota for 162,000 miles…been considering the Restore and Protect but part of me wonders why? The engine is...

I don’t currently own a vehicle with an iOLM, I own a Toyota. I developed my own algorithm for it, basically researched the engine (naturally aspirated port injected V6), not known to be an oil user, easy highway commute and a few UOA’s using a different oils. I would trust an iOLM if I was...

Does it take its own engine’s flaws into account? I don’t know of many manufacturers willing to admit they built a fuel diluter, instead years later they may adjust the oil life distance down. Do they take oil consumption into account? Oil level in the engine? These scenarios are different than...

I think “rules of thumb” oil change intervals are so popular because no one really knows exactly when to change their oil on any given run. Too many variables. It’s like trying to time the stock market, you’re going to miss the dip. And you settle on a rule of thumb, like you settle on dollar...

I’ve got say, all this restore and protect talk has made me want to try it…only thing, I use Mobil1 on all my engines and none of them consume oil. Zero. I might run some regular Valvoline for a year…start to get some coked up rings and then try Valvoline Restore and Protect. 😁

Yup, went through the same thing. Same thing with the screens on the faucets (boy that brings back memories). And the water holding tank on the toilets always had this black buildup on the ceramic. It was disgusting, and the water smelled like rotten eggs. Did eventually move, not really because...

Yeah I tend to agree. Mobil1 0W30 ESP is the best offering at WM right now for price/10,000 mile drain intervals. The Mobil1 SP 0W40 is probably right there with it but the 0W30 fits more vehicle weight ranges.

Interesting, never thought of that angle.

I switched from Mobil1 EP 5W30 to Mobil1 ESP 0W30 in my 3.5 Toyota 2GRFe and upon that initial startup my engine didn’t seem to like it much. lol. Made a little noise, a little hesitation/misfire. I thought uh oh, my VVTI system doesn’t like it…but it’s been fine ever since. Once again, no...

Yeah unfortunately if you live up in the north east this is somewhat a common thing for vehicles over ten years old. Not unusual to have to replace subframes or find welded plates on frames. I undercoat all my vehicles with either fluid film or NH oil undercoating once, sometimes twice a year...

I was thinking the exact same thing, I figured the exhaust cam side would have much more varnish than that intake side, especially in that spot where it’s so clean…the heat from that exhaust manifold you’d think would rise right up into that area and cause varnish buildup. I wonder if he cleaned...