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When you say run the car hard, do you mean a highway drive? I get the idea, but is it a good idea to be running a solvent that strong in the oil when in gear?

Do you think there is any harm in using three bottles of B12? Mine burns about a quart every 400 miles, so she is in dire need of a fix. I figure that if I am going to do it, I might as well just go 2 ounces per cylinder at a time for as long as it takes to empty three bottles. Then drain the...

No answer here gives a reason as to why to burn it off. I think I would rather sacrifice a jug of Supertech after the soak by draining out the B12-infused oil before trying to start it for the first time. I would still love to get a reason why it would be better not to spend the $18 and go the...

So I am finally going to get around to soaking the pistons on my 2007 Camry with the 2AZ-FE that burns oil like it was designed for it. I have watched plenty of videos and read through numerous threads, but there is one question that I cannot seem to find the answer to. It seems that most...

I am finally going to get around doing this to my oil chugging Camry. Is the consumption on yours still down? Also, what is the purpose of starting it up with the B12 still in the crankcase after the soak is finished? Other than sacrificing oil, is there a reason to not drain it out completely...

If you need a laugh, the same car developed a new problem, but I'm pretty sure I can track this one down.

I bit the bullet and swapped out the alternator. The new one is reading 14.33V on the alternator and 14.28V at the battery at idle, as opposed to the 13.75V/13.70V the previous was reading, so there is a definite improvement in charging output. After letting it sit all night the battery read...

At this point that is where I am leaning. I just now had to run out so I stopped by Autozone to have them test the alternator with whatever gizmo they use when it is in the car just because why not? It passed with flying colors. The fact that the light will go off for a half second when the...

It is possible that I screwed up the process, but with the engine running and the high beams on, putting the negative lead on the negative battery terminal and the positive lead on the alternator battery terminal measured 0.000V of AC and it didn't move. I couldn't rev the engine and keep the...

And starting her up the alternator initially read 13.91V and the battery 13.85V. It didn't wildly fluctuate as she came up to temperature. I am running out of ideas, haha.

So the battery in the trunk was at a happy 12.77V this morning. It didn't even lose the surface charge. Meanwhile the new battery in the engine was at 12.56V. So my conclusion here is that something must be sucking power out of the battery overnight. I checked the fuses in the engine bay and all...

I took it for another drive around town to the pharmacy and sub shop and whatnot. Started fine, idles fine, runs fine, but the battery light stays on. It does go off briefly when I accelerate from a dead stop up to 40 mph or so and get the RPM up to 3000-3500. Once I let my foot off of the gas...

I measured 0V for both the positive terminal/clamp and negative terminal/clamp. With the negative probe on the batterie's negative terminal and the positive probe on the alternator body I measured 0 Ohms. I also confirmed continuity for that same negative terminal/alternator body connection.

Nothing is ever simple. I replaced the existing battery with the one I picked up yesterday. I think it was a little low on voltage despite having a "9/24" sticker on it because the car idled lower than normal after starting it the first time. I took it out for a ten minute drive quickly up and...

Quick rundown of electric issues with my 2007 Camry LE 2.4L: 2 years ago I replaced the alternator. 1.25-1.5 years ago the car began having long, rough, sluggish starts when first fired up for the day with a 6.5-year old battery that had a 5 year warranty. 1 year ago I replaced that battery...

I went from running Fram Endurance to Purolator TL 20195's on my oil burning 2007 2.4L Camry and have not noticed any difference whatsoever. Since I do 3k OCI's nowadays with her becoming an experiment in reducing oil consumption, I see no need to pay more than $2.45 for a filter that I am...

On my every day driver (40ish miles per day) 2007 oil burning 2.4L Camry I run Purolator Tech TL20195's for 3,000 mile oil changes. They cost $2.45 each on Amazon, are exactly the same as Purolator's basic red cans, and work great for my purposes. If you want to save some money you can go that...

It looks like it comes in 15 ounce cans, so do you mind sharing what procedure you used? 4.25 ounces into each cylinder, manually rotate it x number of times every 6/12/24 hours, then repeat for as long as desired? Then suck out any remainder on top of the pistons before draining the oil? I see...

At some point I will probably give it a shot, but I am admittedly terrified of hydrolocking the thing since I do still use her as my daily beater. I have watched enough videos where people either use a vacuum (which I suppose I could rig up some piping on my handheld shop vac to accomplish that)...

Update #9 200 mile check. I realized I underfilled the oil when I changed it after I let it sit a little longer, so I added some shortly after and overfilled it a tad. Buuuuuuut, not that it matters, because the mechanical issue people told me so. WHOMP WHOMP. So it looks like this...